LugerForum Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Please help identify my new Luger (pics in post)

mrerick · 08-15-2010, 10:29 AM

Hi Bryce,

Welcome to the forum!

You have a piece of family history here... Your grandfather may have received papers from his officer in Europe that gave him permission to return to the USA with his "War Trophy". If you still have access to his papers, you might try and find those.

If he has ever told you his "Bring back story", consider contributing it to the forum here that discusses those.

Your 1913 DWM was made just a few years after the design was accepted by the German army. Many more were made after the start and through the end of WW-I.

Get some spray gun oil / preservative. RemOil is good, and commonly available at WalMart stores in the USA.

Carefully remove the grips by taking out the screw with a proper screwdriver that fills the thickness of the slot and the width of the screw. Be very careful not to damage the screw.

There are instructions here on how to remove the grips. The left side can particularly be chipped, so read them and be careful. Check the Tech info area of this site. They lift out slightly from the bottom screw area, then slide out from under the safety on the left.

Disassemble the gun, and give it a good soaking spray of the preservative oil. Let it sit.

When I have to remove rust (the FeO3 form of Iron Oxide) from a Blued (FeO4 form of Iron Oxide) surface, I work very slowly and carefully. You want to remove the surface red oxide (which is softer) and leave the surface blue-black oxide.

I developed a technique that works well for me. Take a Q-Tip (made on a paper or wood rod) and take a small Q-Tip size tuft of #0000 Steel Wool. Wrap the steel wool around the end of the Q-Tip so that it forms a cushioned handle. Soak the end of the Q-Tip/Steel Wool in preservative oil. You now have a tool that you can use to gently and slowly remove the red oxide from the surface of the gun.

On the stampings (like the DWM) with surface rust, work gently along the lines of the stamping.

Don't try and remove all the red oxide you'll see deeply in the surface. Some of that is normal in a 100 year old gun. Just focus on the surface rust.

Between removal of the active rust and proper preservative oiling, you should be able to stabilize your Luger.

Collecting lugers is really a balance of values. Many collectors don't like refinished guns because it takes away from the historic value of the weapon. Some value a perfect appearance over everything else. In your case, the value is it's connection to your family's history and honoring your grandfather's service. It's all good!

Marc

08-15-2010, 10:29 AM	#5
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,920 Thanks: 1,377 Thanked 3,135 Times in 1,518 Posts	Hi Bryce, Welcome to the forum! You have a piece of family history here... Your grandfather may have received papers from his officer in Europe that gave him permission to return to the USA with his "War Trophy". If you still have access to his papers, you might try and find those. If he has ever told you his "Bring back story", consider contributing it to the forum here that discusses those. Your 1913 DWM was made just a few years after the design was accepted by the German army. Many more were made after the start and through the end of WW-I. Get some spray gun oil / preservative. RemOil is good, and commonly available at WalMart stores in the USA. Carefully remove the grips by taking out the screw with a proper screwdriver that fills the thickness of the slot and the width of the screw. Be very careful not to damage the screw. There are instructions here on how to remove the grips. The left side can particularly be chipped, so read them and be careful. Check the Tech info area of this site. They lift out slightly from the bottom screw area, then slide out from under the safety on the left. Disassemble the gun, and give it a good soaking spray of the preservative oil. Let it sit. When I have to remove rust (the FeO3 form of Iron Oxide) from a Blued (FeO4 form of Iron Oxide) surface, I work very slowly and carefully. You want to remove the surface red oxide (which is softer) and leave the surface blue-black oxide. I developed a technique that works well for me. Take a Q-Tip (made on a paper or wood rod) and take a small Q-Tip size tuft of #0000 Steel Wool. Wrap the steel wool around the end of the Q-Tip so that it forms a cushioned handle. Soak the end of the Q-Tip/Steel Wool in preservative oil. You now have a tool that you can use to gently and slowly remove the red oxide from the surface of the gun. On the stampings (like the DWM) with surface rust, work gently along the lines of the stamping. Don't try and remove all the red oxide you'll see deeply in the surface. Some of that is normal in a 100 year old gun. Just focus on the surface rust. Between removal of the active rust and proper preservative oiling, you should be able to stabilize your Luger. Collecting lugers is really a balance of values. Many collectors don't like refinished guns because it takes away from the historic value of the weapon. Some value a perfect appearance over everything else. In your case, the value is it's connection to your family's history and honoring your grandfather's service. It's all good! Marc __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.