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PhilOhio · 10-01-2009, 11:38 AM

Alan,

I've gotten heavily into .30 Luger (aka 7.65mm Parabellum) this past month, for my SIG P-210, and have learned a lot.

Bore diameter in inches is .3095" nominal. Molds are available for the 93 grain lead bullet, which is ideal. I size it to .311", but had to make my own sizing die to do that. Maybe somebody sells one. The diameter of lead bullets should always be a little larger than for equivalent jacketed bullets, to enhance accuracy and prevent leading, although that may sound counterintuitive.

But I think a .308 bullet would be just fine. Lee thinks so, too, as their inexpensive, high quality reloading dies are set up for .308". There seems to be considerable user experience that .308 bullets are quite accurate, but I have not tried that yet.

If you make your own cases from .38 Super, 9mm Largo, or something like that, the rims must be turned down slightly on a lathe, to .394". And after forming in the Lee sizing die, you must do whatever is necessary to reduce wall thickness in the neck area to a maximum of .010", or they won't likely chamber. Sized from 9mm brass without thinning, the necks come out at around .015" thick, which won't work. There is not really a significant increase; this is about what the 9mm diameter case mouths were before. But the whole thing is too much of a hassle, I decided after working my way through a bag of 100 new .38 Super cases.

Best way is to simply buy Starline or Winchester .30 Luger cases. The latter have a wall thickness of exactly .010" in the neck. They also use an empty case OAL of .840", which is good. Reloading books say trim to .845", but Winchester's number is better.

So yes, everything you need for reloading is available, and that is by far the best way to go, unless you are made of money. And also, lead bullet reloads put just about zero wear on the bore of a valuable antique pistol.

With lead bullets, hold velocity to about 1000 to 1100 FPS and use any good bullet lube. Your bore will not lead up, unless you go way too high on velocity, and .30 Luger was never intended for velocities and pressures in the higher range of the .30 Mauser anyway.

Many powders are fine; Unique, Bullseye, W231, etc. I like W231, max 4.2 grains with the 93 grain bullet.

10-01-2009, 11:38 AM	#9
PhilOhio User Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 145 Thanks: 5 Thanked 17 Times in 14 Posts	Alan, I've gotten heavily into .30 Luger (aka 7.65mm Parabellum) this past month, for my SIG P-210, and have learned a lot. Bore diameter in inches is .3095" nominal. Molds are available for the 93 grain lead bullet, which is ideal. I size it to .311", but had to make my own sizing die to do that. Maybe somebody sells one. The diameter of lead bullets should always be a little larger than for equivalent jacketed bullets, to enhance accuracy and prevent leading, although that may sound counterintuitive. But I think a .308 bullet would be just fine. Lee thinks so, too, as their inexpensive, high quality reloading dies are set up for .308". There seems to be considerable user experience that .308 bullets are quite accurate, but I have not tried that yet. If you make your own cases from .38 Super, 9mm Largo, or something like that, the rims must be turned down slightly on a lathe, to .394". And after forming in the Lee sizing die, you must do whatever is necessary to reduce wall thickness in the neck area to a maximum of .010", or they won't likely chamber. Sized from 9mm brass without thinning, the necks come out at around .015" thick, which won't work. There is not really a significant increase; this is about what the 9mm diameter case mouths were before. But the whole thing is too much of a hassle, I decided after working my way through a bag of 100 new .38 Super cases. Best way is to simply buy Starline or Winchester .30 Luger cases. The latter have a wall thickness of exactly .010" in the neck. They also use an empty case OAL of .840", which is good. Reloading books say trim to .845", but Winchester's number is better. So yes, everything you need for reloading is available, and that is by far the best way to go, unless you are made of money. And also, lead bullet reloads put just about zero wear on the bore of a valuable antique pistol. With lead bullets, hold velocity to about 1000 to 1100 FPS and use any good bullet lube. Your bore will not lead up, unless you go way too high on velocity, and .30 Luger was never intended for velocities and pressures in the higher range of the .30 Mauser anyway. Many powders are fine; Unique, Bullseye, W231, etc. I like W231, max 4.2 grains with the 93 grain bullet.