"I have to disagree about the linseed oil. And I'm talking about using only boiled linseed oil on any gun stock. I do use it on pistol grips, including Lugers, but only after the soap and toothbrush cleaning routine. It does not "soften" any kind of gunstock wood I know about, and I've been using it for many decades...as did all the military services, including the Germans."
Phil,
I have had a totally different experience. I have restored quite a number of military stocks in the last 40 years. I have done several M1 Garand and Carbine stocks, as well as Mausers.
I had an M1 Garand stock that was so saturated, you could literally dig chunks out of with your finger nails. From what I have seen, Linseed oil will penetrate over a period of time, saturating the wood fibers causing them to separate.
It can be likened to enter lacing and locking your fingers, and then pulling them apart. If your fingers are dry there is substantial resistance. If you put oil on them first, there is very little resistance. It does the same to wood fiber.
I'm not saying this will happen with fresh wood and a few coats of Linseed oil, it won't. However, 60-90 year old wood that has absorbed body oil, gun oil and unknown coatings of Linseed, it will.
I have used light coats of Watco on all of my Luger grips. With 2 to 3 light coatings, it doesn't leave a shine or a gloss.
Dawn detergent is probably the most mild soap available. It cuts through oil, and does not harm the wood. It's used to clean aquatic birds and animals that have been coated from oil spills.
Here are 3 photos. All were done as I have described.
Best regards...
Ron
__________________
I Still Need DWM side plate #49... if anyone runs across a nice one.
What ~Rudyard Kipling~ said...
|