[Heinz]

I think the FAQ method is an excellent method for wood cleaning. I have never used it on Luger grips but have used the same basic method on a number of 150+ year old muzzle loaders. Another choice if you do not like the idea of water on the wood (because of issues of raisng the grain or potentially warping thin wood) is artists turpentine. Note, you have to go to the art supply store and buy artist's turpentine and pick up a bottle of artist's boiled linseed oil while you are at it. Hardware store turpentines and linseed oils are pretty variable. If the wood has a lot of oil saturation you may try putting the turpentine in a dish, brushing it repeatedly over the wood with a soft paint brush and letting it run back into the dish. Periodically blot the turpentine off the grips with paper towels or absorbent cotton. Be very careful blotting that you do not snag on any splinters. I have been told that you may also use a powdered compound called "whiting" to do the blotting but I have never tried it myself. It might get gooey. I have never done Luger grips but have used this on Colt grips and 200 year old rifles. This method will more aggresively remove any of the old finish than Murphy's oil soap, so you need to re oil the wood. I dilute the artist's boiled linseed oil 50/50 with turp. Blot off any excess and let it dry a day at least and recoat. A stiff bristle paint brush helps. I do NOT use a tooth brush around checkering, but I am a bit of a Klutz at times. This works for me, if it don't for you, then you should have tried in on some scrap wood first - I did.