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John D. · 11-14-2001, 08:37 PM

Yes - what appears to happen is that the "shock" of the recoil and chambering a live round is just enough to have the firing pin "follow" the action of the toggle assembly. A similiar thing happens on Colt O-frames when the sear/hammer has been "over dressed" (umm - "filed down" at the wrong angle?) and the act of the "slide" moving forward dislodges the hammer from the sear.. Sorry for the analogy - but on a 1911, you can visually see this happening, but not so on a Luger, as there is no hammer...

I think the reason that is seems more "normal" when you dry-fire is that you are by-passing that recoil shock - so the sear and the pin are more firmly engaged.

As for "inexpert" adjustment of any firing mechanism - yes - it can cause an AD (Accidental Discharge) or the weapon can go full auto. What most "kitchen top" gunsmiths seem to forget is that a SMALL amount of metal filed off or a sear cut at the wrong angle can lead to disastorious results.. (One gunsmith who I apprenticed under favavorite saying was "take off *almost* enough metal - as you can't put it back on when you file too far".. )

Anyway - you can remove both the sear and the firing pin - and be sure that both are free of debris or "burrs" - so that both engage properly. If both look OK to you, and the problem isn't apparent immediately - then I'd suggest that you send it to someone who knows Lugers (Like Ted). It may be a small angle cut to get it to fire properly - and well worth the small price, especially in keeping original parts with your Luger..!!!

Hope this helps!!!!

John D.

11-14-2001, 08:37 PM	#4
John D. Administrator & Site Owner LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: A Little NE of Somewhere... Posts: 2,651 Thanks: 477 Thanked 515 Times in 128 Posts	Re: Trigger not cocked after firing Yes - what appears to happen is that the "shock" of the recoil and chambering a live round is just enough to have the firing pin "follow" the action of the toggle assembly. A similiar thing happens on Colt O-frames when the sear/hammer has been "over dressed" (umm - "filed down" at the wrong angle?) and the act of the "slide" moving forward dislodges the hammer from the sear.. Sorry for the analogy - but on a 1911, you can visually see this happening, but not so on a Luger, as there is no hammer... I think the reason that is seems more "normal" when you dry-fire is that you are by-passing that recoil shock - so the sear and the pin are more firmly engaged. As for "inexpert" adjustment of any firing mechanism - yes - it can cause an AD (Accidental Discharge) or the weapon can go full auto. What most "kitchen top" gunsmiths seem to forget is that a SMALL amount of metal filed off or a sear cut at the wrong angle can lead to disastorious results.. (One gunsmith who I apprenticed under favavorite saying was "take off almost enough metal - as you can't put it back on when you file too far".. ) Anyway - you can remove both the sear and the firing pin - and be sure that both are free of debris or "burrs" - so that both engage properly. If both look OK to you, and the problem isn't apparent immediately - then I'd suggest that you send it to someone who knows Lugers (Like Ted). It may be a small angle cut to get it to fire properly - and well worth the small price, especially in keeping original parts with your Luger..!!! Hope this helps!!!! John D.