Quote:
Originally posted by Ron Smith
Chris,
The preferred method is light draw filing (if required) and hand work with fine grit sand paper wrapped tightly around dowels or some type of mandrel with the correct conture. Small files wrapped tightly with fine sand paper ( used "worn-out" 220-240 grit) work well so long as no teeth are exposed while maintaining contures, angles and sharp edges.
Also being sure that it is taken down to fresh metal, if possible, without going too far. Knowing how to follow the grain of the metal can be important.
It's a pains taking process, when done correctly. Buffing wheels round off the edges, wallow out or obliterate proof marks, and just muck the gun up in general. The lazy mans way of refinishing.
Ron
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Ron , I know what you mean about buffing , I have seen heavily buffed and re-blued Lugers and other guns and they look "orrible" . I can see that all that hand work may be necessary if the finish is pitted or marred in some way but if basically good and simply needs re-blueing or refinishing is there a quicker more efficent way ?
The reason I ask is I have just ordered a Russian capture P38 that looks good and all original except for the Re -blue . so I'm thinking of stripping it and restoring the original finish . Not sure if it was rust-blued or parkerised . I am still leaning toward glass bead blasting or Vaqua blasting , as we use it in the motorcycle restoration industry and it is non aggressive and takes the article back to clean bare metal.
Has anyone tried it on guns ?
I don't mind a little pitting if thats the way it came , preserves the character and originality of the gun . guess it depends on what sort of restoration your doing and the end result your looking for .