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Ron Smith · 06-10-2008, 10:09 AM

Chris,

The preferred method is light draw filing (if required) and hand work with fine grit sand paper wrapped tightly around dowels or some type of mandrel with the correct conture. Small files wrapped tightly with fine sand paper ( used "worn-out" 220-240 grit) work well so long as no teeth are exposed while maintaining contures, angles and sharp edges.

Also being sure that it is taken down to fresh metal, if possible, without going too far. Knowing how to follow the grain of the metal can be important.

It's a pains taking process, when done correctly. Buffing wheels round off the edges, wallow out or obliterate proof marks, and just muck the gun up in general. The lazy mans way of refinishing.

Ron

06-10-2008, 10:09 AM	#6
Ron Smith User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Orygun Posts: 4,243 Thanks: 118 Thanked 245 Times in 150 Posts	Chris, The preferred method is light draw filing (if required) and hand work with fine grit sand paper wrapped tightly around dowels or some type of mandrel with the correct conture. Small files wrapped tightly with fine sand paper ( used "worn-out" 220-240 grit) work well so long as no teeth are exposed while maintaining contures, angles and sharp edges. Also being sure that it is taken down to fresh metal, if possible, without going too far. Knowing how to follow the grain of the metal can be important. It's a pains taking process, when done correctly. Buffing wheels round off the edges, wallow out or obliterate proof marks, and just muck the gun up in general. The lazy mans way of refinishing. Ron __________________ I Still Need DWM side plate #49... if anyone runs across a nice one. What ~Rudyard Kipling~ said...