LugerForum Discussion Forums - View Single Post - Norrell's Moly-Resin on a Shooter

Zamo · 12-30-2007, 12:27 PM

I have finished about 10 firearms with it, and have been using it for about three years. I have refinished several AR15's, a (de-sporterized) 1903A1 Springfield, a Model 94 30-30, a Savage 30-06, two SW 22A pistols, a 1911A1, and now this Luger. Almost all of those have been in either Olive Drab, or Olive Drab and Flat "SOCOM" Black. In all that, I have only had one piece show signs of wear, and that was an a newer AR15 that had a teflon coating. Non-Stick. Go figure.
Other than that, it has held up very well on some firearms that get a lot of abusive use (Field carry pieces, trunk guns, etc.). I am eager to see how it wears with the tight tolerances of the Luger toggle.
The U.S. Army alledgedly uses this stuff for armory level repairs, though I can't vouch for it. It has more durability than I'll ever need (emursion in salt water for 3 days, etc.). You can read more about the product, and some of these amazing claims here:
John Norrell Firearms
Once the finish has been cured in an oven, it CAN NOT be removed. However, it can be touched up, should a deep scratch of chip occur, but I haven't seen this happen, though I'm sure it could.
Before it's cured, it can be removed with acetone, and when it drys, you can handle it and examine it very easily before you bake it, but it will never "dry" completely unless you bake it. Which is actually a curing process, and the heat causes the substance to transform into a rock hard shell.
The biggest problem I have had with it, is the size of my kitchen oven isn't big enough to acomodate larger barrelled actions, and so I actually "cooked" the Springfield, the 30-30, and the Savage out in my homebuilt BBQ Smoker! That was interesting, but it worked. It just needs to cure at 300 degrees for an hour.
Here are a few photos of some of the other pieces I've done:

This Springfield was done with their Grayish-Green color, which is supposed to mimic cosmolined parkerizing. It turned out very nice, and I wish I had a better picture. The bolt assembly was done in the same SOCOM Flat Black I did the Luger in for some contrast.
Next are two AR's I did in the Olive Drab, and again, the small parts were done in Flat Black for contrast:

and my carbine:
http://home.comcast.net/~dbweb1903/g...rifles/car.jpg
I swear by this stuff, though, naturally, you wouldn't want to use it on a collectable firearm, but it does very well on all others.

12-30-2007, 12:27 PM	#6
Zamo User Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Washington State Posts: 142 Thanks: 4 Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts	I have finished about 10 firearms with it, and have been using it for about three years. I have refinished several AR15's, a (de-sporterized) 1903A1 Springfield, a Model 94 30-30, a Savage 30-06, two SW 22A pistols, a 1911A1, and now this Luger. Almost all of those have been in either Olive Drab, or Olive Drab and Flat "SOCOM" Black. In all that, I have only had one piece show signs of wear, and that was an a newer AR15 that had a teflon coating. Non-Stick. Go figure. Other than that, it has held up very well on some firearms that get a lot of abusive use (Field carry pieces, trunk guns, etc.). I am eager to see how it wears with the tight tolerances of the Luger toggle. The U.S. Army alledgedly uses this stuff for armory level repairs, though I can't vouch for it. It has more durability than I'll ever need (emursion in salt water for 3 days, etc.). You can read more about the product, and some of these amazing claims here: John Norrell Firearms Once the finish has been cured in an oven, it CAN NOT be removed. However, it can be touched up, should a deep scratch of chip occur, but I haven't seen this happen, though I'm sure it could. Before it's cured, it can be removed with acetone, and when it drys, you can handle it and examine it very easily before you bake it, but it will never "dry" completely unless you bake it. Which is actually a curing process, and the heat causes the substance to transform into a rock hard shell. The biggest problem I have had with it, is the size of my kitchen oven isn't big enough to acomodate larger barrelled actions, and so I actually "cooked" the Springfield, the 30-30, and the Savage out in my homebuilt BBQ Smoker! That was interesting, but it worked. It just needs to cure at 300 degrees for an hour. Here are a few photos of some of the other pieces I've done: This Springfield was done with their Grayish-Green color, which is supposed to mimic cosmolined parkerizing. It turned out very nice, and I wish I had a better picture. The bolt assembly was done in the same SOCOM Flat Black I did the Luger in for some contrast. Next are two AR's I did in the Olive Drab, and again, the small parts were done in Flat Black for contrast: and my carbine: http://home.comcast.net/~dbweb1903/g...rifles/car.jpg I swear by this stuff, though, naturally, you wouldn't want to use it on a collectable firearm, but it does very well on all others.