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pillboxesghost · 04-05-2007, 05:12 PM

Jessie,
Most contributors will not even venture a guess as to the value of a Luger without photo's.

If you had stated " I paid $xxxx.00 for this pistol. How do you guys think I did?" I suspect you would have received more responses.

You have a pretty common military variation -- so value will hinge on condition,condition, condition , "correctness" of the pistol as well as "correctness" of the accessories accompanying the pistol.

I am totally unable to comment on percent of remaining "original" finish without being able to see the Luger.

You don't state what the pistol S/N suffix block is. As I recall un-numbered extruded magazines (marked fxo and P 08 on their LH side) having black bakelite bottoms; secured by a single pin are correct for any byf 42 (and byf 41's after the 't' block).

If you don't have the above style mags, then mis-matching numbered aluminum bottom, single pin, extruded magazines would be "less incorrect" than any other mags (for this pistol) to my notion. You may hear collectors refer to these mags as 3-MM-122, 4-MM-fxo or 5-MM-fxo magazines. The black bakelite bottoms are often called 6-MM-fxo mags.

How are your grips marked on the inside? I believe the wood gripped byf 42's should have an eagle over 135 proof with (or without??) the last two digits of the pistol's S/N. Don't have my reference books handy so somebody correct me if I'm wrong. Having incorrect grips will lower the pistol's value.

If your Luger has the black bakelite grips ( making it a so-called "Black Widow"); that opens a real can of worms, determining whether the grips are authentic Nazi era or reproduction.

Did you get a "takedown tool" with the accessories? It should be eagle over 135 proofed also. A clean e/135 tool would be worth $100 to $150 IMHO.

The loose stitching on 1918 holster can be made "as new" by Jerry Burney (usually) at a most modest cost. However, this holster will still be "less correct" than a 1941 (thru war's end) dated holster.

What is the condition of the bore? Etc., etc.,etc.

Not trying to write a book (or lecture you). Just trying to explain why nobody jumped out there and exclaimed " Why that pistol's worth at least $10,00.00"!!!

Hope you enjoy your Luger!

Jon

04-05-2007, 05:12 PM	#2
pillboxesghost User Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Coastal NC Posts: 22 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Value of byf 42 Jessie, Most contributors will not even venture a guess as to the value of a Luger without photo's. If you had stated " I paid $xxxx.00 for this pistol. How do you guys think I did?" I suspect you would have received more responses. You have a pretty common military variation -- so value will hinge on condition,condition, condition , "correctness" of the pistol as well as "correctness" of the accessories accompanying the pistol. I am totally unable to comment on percent of remaining "original" finish without being able to see the Luger. You don't state what the pistol S/N suffix block is. As I recall un-numbered extruded magazines (marked fxo and P 08 on their LH side) having black bakelite bottoms; secured by a single pin are correct for any byf 42 (and byf 41's after the 't' block). If you don't have the above style mags, then mis-matching numbered aluminum bottom, single pin, extruded magazines would be "less incorrect" than any other mags (for this pistol) to my notion. You may hear collectors refer to these mags as 3-MM-122, 4-MM-fxo or 5-MM-fxo magazines. The black bakelite bottoms are often called 6-MM-fxo mags. How are your grips marked on the inside? I believe the wood gripped byf 42's should have an eagle over 135 proof with (or without??) the last two digits of the pistol's S/N. Don't have my reference books handy so somebody correct me if I'm wrong. Having incorrect grips will lower the pistol's value. If your Luger has the black bakelite grips ( making it a so-called "Black Widow"); that opens a real can of worms, determining whether the grips are authentic Nazi era or reproduction. Did you get a "takedown tool" with the accessories? It should be eagle over 135 proofed also. A clean e/135 tool would be worth $100 to $150 IMHO. The loose stitching on 1918 holster can be made "as new" by Jerry Burney (usually) at a most modest cost. However, this holster will still be "less correct" than a 1941 (thru war's end) dated holster. What is the condition of the bore? Etc., etc.,etc. Not trying to write a book (or lecture you). Just trying to explain why nobody jumped out there and exclaimed " Why that pistol's worth at least $10,00.00"!!! Hope you enjoy your Luger! Jon __________________ Jon Lewis