Not sure I can tell you what it is worth, but I might be able to provide some guidance as to what it might not be worth.
If is is NOT original finish, then even with matching parts you are looking at a shooter worth probably in the $600=$700 range. If the finish is original then the price just goes up and up. The marked price ($850) might be good.
Regarding the 1920 vs. 1923 question, from a value and collectability point of view, it really doesn't matter much. It is my understanding that the 1920's had 4 digit serial numbers, and the 1923's had 5 digit serial numbers.
At any rate when you go back to look at it, your main objective would be to determine to your satisfaction if the finish is original. Here are a couple of ideas:
I bring three things: A very bright flashlight like a Surefire, a bore light, and a small magnifying glass.
The bright flashlight is used to look for a patina in the blueing. The patina (rust) will show up under a bright light much better than ambient light. If a recent re-blue, you will not see the faint rust color. Also look for consistency - are all parts relatively even in this patina.
There are a couple places where the wear and patina are greater:
�· The front and back straps in which the blueing is often worn thin.
�· The stock lug normally has significant wear on the corners. Though this might be true on a recent re-blue.
�· That little area behind the lanyard loop. No one cleans there and if the finish is old there will definitely be a rust color there under bright light.
�· Look for typical wear patterns. In my limited experience the commercials show more wear on the front/rear gripstrap and less wear from a holster. I figure that compared to wartime models, they spent less time in a holster and more time in a rug.
�· Remove the upper assembly if possible and look inside. Are the innards blued or in the white? Keep in mind that years of crud, blood, sweat, tears, oils, etc. might make the inside look almost blued. If you canâ??t remove the top assembly at least put a mag in and lock the toggle back. Remove a grip panel if you can.
�· You said there is some pitting. If re-blued the blueing will be on top of the pitting. This is probably the easiest check. It is possible to fake this but in the price range you are looking at I wouldnâ??t expect sophisticated fakery.
I see you are in AZ. I am in the Phoenix area. I would be more than happy to accompany you to look at the pistol. I can bring a very similar 1923 Commercial for comparison.
Send me a PM if you want to meet.
Good Luck!
-- Dan
|