Decent Shooter Price...
 

at Bob & Brad Simpson's, for a new member looking for their 1st. luger...

http://www.simpsonltd.com/D3939_luger_1936_s42_$595.htm

Regards,

Pete... <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />

Pete,
* Wonder if it is all matching? Would be the highest 1936 chamber dated recorded. Just a post to note that observation.
* Jan Still, in TRL, states the 1936 production of 89,500 is in the 5000f-4500p S/N range . While I have two recorded 1936 P.08's in the "r" block (542r & 4414r), as well as four scattered widely in the late "p" and overall "q" blocks, this would likely be a 1937 assembly completion.
* Shame a reblued frame would mask an original I/Side polished 1936 specimen. Fortunately, the pictures do suggest non-humped frame ears leading one to conclude this is indeed a 1936 frame.
* The pic sure doesn't suggest only 75% blue. Maybe this is Bob/Brad's way of discounting a reblue. Hopefully no pitting. Otherwise, I'd question what the other side may look like.
* I agree, as an entry piece for $595, one can overlook the incorrect period mag and enjoy the P.08 learning spur/shooting esthetics while not worrying about being stung.
* Not too long ago, $600 could get you a very lightly worn (&lt;5%) reblue. There may still be a few out there on the rebound.
* PS - I too have no prior association with this pistol.
Bob

Hello Bob,

Thanks for the great info. update...I need to study more about those WWII Mausers...

The ad does have a small thumbnail which can be clicked to show the gun's right side. It does look as decent as the left side...

You will not believe the junky, doggy, mismatched lugers that will run at least $ 600 in California state...

Regards,

Pete... <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />

I paid $500 for one a lot like that a year and a half ago. Mine was all matching--a great shooter (1-1.5" groups) after a little tweaking.

Bob, I would be willing to bet the suffix is a "P", if it is truly a 1936. Many people mistake the "P" for an "R", yes even the gang at Simpson's (depending on the individual examining the pistol). I called them recently on a no suffix byf 41 (as advertised) and found out it was a R-Block pistol. The gentleman I talked to at Simpson's said the people listing the pistol must not have been able to tell what it was, so they just recorded it as a no suffix!!

I think Frank is probably right. I just got in that excellent 1936 with matching mag from Tom Heller a very nice Luger that has some bad localized pitting on the right rail I can clean up for restoration for a client. It is in the "o" block which is easy to read, a P does look like an r to me in German Script. It has an open bottom not a circle like we would make in the English language.

Frank,
* You're likely right on target. Good catch! Wouldn't be the first time a re-blue's buffing wheel caught a suffix letter & attempted to rewrite history. If I can catch Brad, I'll ask.

Thor,
* The "p" also gives me fits sometimes. If the bottom is lightly struck/washed out, I keep wanting to see an "n" block. Certain "r" suffix strikes remind me of a seagull.
* This might cost me to find out; but, when you complete your metal prep, do the original marks retain a displacement edge, stand on an island, or are they smooth edged? Granted it depends on the amount of prep and whether the impression stamps are involved; but, I'm curious to know whether this can be a discriminator for the future?
Respectfully,
Bob

Thor, I hope that you are planning to post before and after photos of my former 1936 PO8. When finished, I will probably be sad that I didn't have you do the job for my collection. Tom

Bob, I try to avoid restorations of firearms that have pitting adjacent to number of letters. I go to extreme care to preserve all proof markings, acceptance stamps, etc. I have had limited TIG work done by my buddy Don here in Albuquerque in extreme cases to fill in deep pitting.

Thor,
* Wise is the way of the Master.
Thanks,
Bob