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-   -   another new luger owner needs help,, part 2 (https://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=7772)

ESU 07-07-2002 08:07 PM

another new luger owner needs help,, part 2
 
OK, went upstate this weekend with some hot norinco 124 gr 9mm and the pistol(byf42) seemed to work alot better. I took my time and tried the 4 different mags I had ; 1-fxo 37 , alum bottom(came with gun), 2- aftermarket triple k mag, 3- #'ed + Nazi mag , 4- fxo 37 with a copper or brass bottom. Part of the problem may have been me, seemed I wasnt releasing pressure off the trigger, when I consciously released the trigger then depreessed it again I had 100% functioning if that makes any sense.. Now for part #2, when it rains it pours, after years of wanting a luger i now have 2 . A cop I work with was looking to get rid of 2 pistols. One was a non matching luger, seemed like an upper and a lower . Upper was a 1915 DWM, godd bore, with an unknown lower. Bluing was 80-85% on the upper with about 60% on the lower . Gun came with mag # 4 above, fxo 37 with a brass or copper bottom, I'm leaning to copper . Is this common, I've never seen a copper bottom. The bottom workmanship was excellent , not like an ad hoc setup, but unnumbered. The weapon functioned flawlessly . The other pistol was a p-38 matching #s except for the barrel with wood grips, both pistols for $300.00 .
Luger mag #2 (triple K) didnt function reliably at all. The rest were fine. Hotter ammo seemed to be the way to go. Thx for prior help, Cory.

ESU 07-07-2002 08:14 PM

Oh yeah, how can i add or upload photos that are stored on my hard drive?

Herb 07-07-2002 09:17 PM

ESU, it is a very bad idea to steal guns from a cop!! You should sell them quick, e-mail me, I'll double your money and never tell where they went. Man, what a buy! I personally have never heard of a copper bottomed magazine. Might be a gunsmith experiment. Uploading photos, give them a unique name, then go to http://www.lugerforum.com, on the left side you will see the 'upload photo' entry, upload to that site, write down the URL that you are given for your photo, come to this site, write your message and below the message box is an 'image' block, lower right, click on that, enter the URL you wrote down and click post, and the photo should show up below your message. I might have left out a step or two but you can figure it out, it's easy. Congrats on your 'theft'.

Doubs 07-07-2002 09:21 PM

[quote]Originally posted by ESU:
<strong>Part of the problem may have been me, seemed I wasnt releasing pressure off the trigger, when I consciously released the trigger then depreessed it again I had 100% functioning if that makes any sense. Cory.</strong><hr></blockquote>

Cory, if you remove the side plate and look at the trigger bar you'll notice that there is a round pin sticking from the front of it. Push it from the front and it slides into the trigger bar. When you squeeze the trigger, the lever pushes against the pin from the side which pivots the bar outwards to release the firing pin. The action is so quick upon firing that you still have pressure on the trigger holding it in the rear-most position and the side plate lever is still pushed inward toward the receiver to depress the trigger bar. The trigger bar moves with the receiver as the cannon goes rearward under recoil and the pin slides out from under the lever. The return of the cannon to battery means the trigger bar pin is pressing against the side plate lever from behind, pushing the pin back into the trigger bar. (If the trigger bar was solid, it would strike the side plate lever and something would break.) Only when you release the trigger is the lever pulled outward away from the receiver and the trigger bar. The pin is now free to go forward, placing it once again in position for the lever to press against it from the side and release the firing pin for the next shot. Also, if the trigger bar remained depressed by the lever, the firing pin would not be engaged by the sear and held back in the cocked position. The pin (or plunger) is actually the disconnector on the Luger.

It's not nearly so complicated as it sounds and a look at it with the side plate off will quickly show you how it works.

ESU 07-07-2002 11:29 PM

http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/luger1.jpg
This is the byf42 , I'll take a photo of the mismatched I picked up for 150 and post it later.

ESU 07-08-2002 12:36 PM

Here's the one I picked up for 150.00 . Closer examination makes the lowers bluing a little better than 65%, closer to 75% . This one came with an fxo37 mag with a copper (unnumbered, unmarked) bottom . The DWM 1915 upper is smoother than my byf42.http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/$150.o1.jpg

Edward Tinker 07-08-2002 01:29 PM

Boy $150 is impossible to beat!

I keep looking [img]biggrin.gif[/img] but don't find them for that.

Good job! [img]wink.gif[/img]

Thor 07-08-2002 02:26 PM

Ed,.... boy that is that the truth! Shooter Luger prices have gone way up! What happened to all those Century Arms $ 350 Lugers? Gone into collections I guess! Pity there are not more coming in!


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