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Shooting a 1936 S/42 - replace original parts first?
I am buying a really nice, all matching 1936 dated S/42. It is in approx. 95% condition, and has an absolutely perfect bore that just begs to be shot, at least on a limited basis. All of my other lugers are either shooter condition guns that I don't worry about, or Interarms Mauser Parabellums. My question is should I replace some of the orginal parts on this S/42 before shooting to prevent breaking an original part numbered to the gun, and if so, which parts. The springs all feel like they are good. I was thinking of replacing the extractor and firing pin, and maybe the grips also. Any other parts that should be replaced? Am I being too concerned about something that really isn't a problem? I would greatly appreciate any advice!
Thanks! JD |
Replace the entire Toggle train, extractor, ejector and firing pin if you absolutely MUST shoot it, or take the chance that it will function as designed for a mag or two...
Since you have other Lugers, I would put this one in the safe and just take it out and admire it... Just my $0.02 |
If the condition of this pistol is as good as described, I certainly would not shoot this pistol!
I'd put it away and try to start it off on the next 58 years of life in as good a condition as it ended the last 58 years. Reading the glass half full versus glass half empty, I would rewrite "has an absolutely perfect bore that just begs to be shot" to read "has an absolutely perfect bore that just begs to be preserved." |
I just had to replace the rear toggle link on a Russian import 1937 S42, cracked right behind the toggle. I think you get my point.
rk |
I shot my S/42 '37 model. Ran about a hundred rounds through her. No problems other than an occassional hick up. I will not shoot it again for fear that something will happen to it. I did replace the grips with aftermarket ones before shooting this Luger so that the originals wouldn't break. Now it sits in the safe with all its originals and no where to go.
That's the biggest problem with these as the absolute FEAR factor that accopanies these. The gun is worth so much in historical and dollar value that you are so afraid to shoot it. The FEAR factor will take all the fun out of shooting it, I PROMISE!!!! |
Hi:
The Luger was designed to be shot, not looked at or collected (though I wonder sometimes about my 1970's Mauser Parabellums). Use a little common sense with the ammo you are shooting and you should be just fine. This was a lot easier advice when they sold for $35.00 in the early 1960s Sieger |
Well,
If the S/42 was the only gun in your possession, I'd suggest you change the grips, the firing pin and the firing pin locking pin prior to shooting. But since you have a good deal of post-war and pre-war shooter class pistols, I'd recommend shooting them instead. |
tudorbug
Wouldn't it be 68 years old??? |
Hi, newbie Frank Harvey here, after years of "wanting" a Luger I broke down and got a 1970's Mauser (re-issue) 9mm 6" barrel Po-8 grip style "to shoot", and lucked upon a MINT (just absolutely looks unfired, and no reblue, original super crisp edges, 92% I'd guess straw) 1917 artillery Luger.
I figured I'd shoot the re-issue Mauser, and "maybe" shoot the artillery, but when they both came in, the artillery was WAY to nice for me to seriously consider shooting it, and, the bad news is, the Mauser re-issue is too... It was about dead mint though it had been fired, but just immaculate... and I've found that the 6" 9mm Po-8 grip ones are a bit less common, and I LIKE the gun... So I'll maybe have to buy something else to shoot... I guess this is about par for the course? Except I need to find a minty early dish toggle, but cash is nowhere for that right now... Frank H. |
Save your pennies and find yourself a "shooter" Frank...
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Frank H.:
<strong>Hi, newbie Frank Harvey here, after years of "wanting" a Luger I broke down and got a 1970's Mauser (re-issue) 9mm 6" barrel Po-8 grip style "to shoot", and lucked upon a MINT (just absolutely looks unfired, and no reblue, original super crisp edges, 92% I'd guess straw) 1917 artillery Luger. I figured I'd shoot the re-issue Mauser, and "maybe" shoot the artillery, but when they both came in, the artillery was WAY to nice for me to seriously consider shooting it, and, the bad news is, the Mauser re-issue is too... It was about dead mint though it had been fired, but just immaculate... and I've found that the 6" 9mm Po-8 grip ones are a bit less common, and I LIKE the gun... So I'll maybe have to buy something else to shoot... Frank H.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Frank: As both of these pistoles have been fired before and are not "mint", find a nicely accurate light load and shoot both of them. Believe me, it wont ware them out. Looking at a Luger is nice, firing one is even a more rewarding experience. Sieger |
I still have a picture of Frank with a cowboy hat on! I had wondered what happened to him!
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Ted, your mind is with no leaks or airgaps, I can't believe you have busted me for that photo of me in a cowboy hat from what must have been 4 years ago, "one e-mail".
No one is safe from this man's capability, now proven to all, LOL. Literally late the night before John Sabato's and Ted's posts encouraging me to save up for a shooter grade, around 2 or 3 AM (don't ask) I happened upon that auction on Gunbroker for a 1913 "rebuilt at Mauser" mongrel, not bad looking, mismatched / force matched by Mauser #'s, S/42 toggle etc, got it for a hair over $600, with original mag. Not a "fantastic" buy, but definitely a shooter, and it will allow my (gosh I lucked out and got a mint original one) 1917 Artillery and (mint, dead mint) 1970 6" 9mm Po-8 grip Mauser re-issue to feel safe in their boxes... Sieger, I'll take you up on at least shooting the 70's Mauser, but man, that artillery is just SUCH a "time machine, new in the box" unit, I'll probably spare it and let my 2 year old son inherit it just as it is now. There's not even a mark on the back of the receiver from the toggle coming back, and it's that old DWM bluing, sharp corners, about 92% guessing on the straw, all matching including the wooden bottom mag #, military proofs not a commercial, "sigh". That was my first purchase, an AuctionArms "fuzzy auction picture" luck-out. (Bought it after the auction with no bids actually, offering a bit more than the asking price if he'd wait a week for me to get my money together, wow, what a gun this ended up being, wow...). Let's hope this impulse purchase shooter I bought early last night is with similar luck, but it will no doubt be a shooter. If it's a good enough shooter, I'll have to send some parts to Ted for strawing, put some lipstick on this thing! http://www.gunbroker.com/auction/Vie...?Item=19561181 Thanks all, and I am addicted... Frank H. in L.A. |
Frank, there are three things I am good at.
1. Full restoration of Luger pistols, see restoration and refinishing, tons of pictures to prove it. The fact that your DWM Artillery has no toggle mark has me thinking it is a reblue. I am good at the DWM bluing and keeping the edges sharp. There are a couple of restorers that do this too. See bottom picture. 2. Remembering my old "Luger buddies" Send me a picture and I keep it. 3. Also good at posting pictures! See below! Frank looks pretty happy! <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/FrankHarvey.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/FrankHarvey.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a> <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/HC1900AEA2R.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/HC1900AEA2R.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a> |
Frank, I agree with Thor. It is highly unlikely that a 1917 LPO8 has survived this long without being shot. Also, I'd be surprised if the frame with stock lug, is original to your 1913 DDR rework, as the switch to stock lug frames ocurred in Dec 1913, so they are quite scarce. TH
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Ted, you've outed me re: my night out in Dallas!
Good thing it was my wife with me... (She's a keeper!) Ted, Lugerdoc, MAN, you guys got me looking a bit closer at my "first Luger purchase", I'm wondering if it maybe is a reblue... some aspects look so "original" and not buffed / not messed with, but other aspects do give me pause. Since it's a 1917 Artillery Luger, I've started a fresh post in the Artillery Luger section, check out the photos, shoot me your observations and opinions, I hope I can take it! http://forums.lugerforum.com/cgi-bin...c&f=5&t=000230 (All numbers match including inside both grips and wood bottom mag) I compressed the images heavily to save on download time, while going for maximum clarity. Here's a teaser shot, share your thoughts on that Artillery thread, thanks in advance! Frank H. in L.A. http://forums.lugerforum.com/lfupload/leftsfoff.jpg |
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