Ejector Replacement
 

Just got back from the range where the beloved 1936 S/42 which I shoot broke its extractor and spit the active part out onto the shooting bench (to add insult to injury, it was in the middle of an exceptionally bad string).

Dredging into my memory for a discussion which transpired sometime in the dim past, do I remember correctly that extractor replacement is not as simple as just putting a new one in place, that there is some adjustment, "tuning", involved?

--Dwight

The only extractor I've had to "fit" wasn't difficult at all. As the extractor hook rises over the rim of the cartridge, it pivots on it's pin against a coil spring. At the very rear of the extractor is a "tail" whose underside contacts the breechblock when fully depressed. (Imagine a see-saw with the high side being the hook riding over the rim and the low side contacting the ground being the "tail".) Mine had too much meat on the underside of the "tail" and bottomed out before the hook could override the rim. A bit of careful work with a jeweler's file and stone with frequent checks for function and it was working just fine in no time.

Dwight, you need to make sure it rocks back and forth FREELY and doesnt hang up anywhere. Also a strong spring helps. When you lift it up after installation with your thumb you need to feel a good pull against it. Strong, but free moving in its entire range of motion. Thor

Dammit, I -knew- I would do this. I think ejector, I type extractor. Ejector, extractor, ejector, extractor, lets call the whole thing off...

<img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

I mean ejector. I broke the ejector.

The fitting/tuning question still applies. Thank you all for your patience through my dyslexic episode...

--Dwight

Dwight,

I have never had a problem in popping a new EJECTOR into a reciever. Some of the new repros need to be polished on the outside surface to smooth it up a bit. [img]cool.gif[/img]