DWM 1918
 

Hello everyone.
I have recently adquired a shooter DWM 1918 number 9053L.
I have a couple of questions.....
The pistol has no imperial marks, just letters here and there (all inside the frame), the barrel has no serials.Is it normal or the marks were erased through a horrible refinishing?

I plan to remove existing finish and applying an appropiate finish.
Is rust blue ok? can anyone indicate me how to do it by myself?
Are there any formulas or comercial products available?
Is there an oficial formula to recreate DWM finishes?

Thank you very much for your help.
I am starting to introduce myself in this amazing Luger world........

Best regards, Max

Hi Max,

Since it's a 1918 DWM, with a relatively late serial number, chances are it was not delivered to the German army, since WW1 ended at 20.12.1918.

So there is a chance that your gun and it's finishing are original. Please investigate further before stripping the finishing!

Gerben, thank you for your comments.
I support your theory about imperial marks, but sadly, I still think the pistol was refinished since it is completely blued, indicating some kind of dip bluing, instead of rust bluing.
In other aspects, the gun is in perfect condition (the barrel is perfect).

Best regards from Argentina, Max

Welcome to the Lugerforum.

Rust blue would be the appropriate finish, and all supplies would be available from Brownell's, Inc. (try brownells.com)

You are looking at a considerable investment in time, patience, and labor... If it is a labor of love, then you will find the time well spent, but if you just want to refinish the gun to sell it, I would recommend that you have it professionally done. We have a member "Thor" who does this professionally, but the last time I heard, he was not accepting international work because of the all the customs red tape... so you should look for a good gunsmith in Argentina who has a good reputation for rust blue finishes...

I would handle out of country weapons only if they go through an import/exporter like Simpson LTD. The recent restorations I did and am doing for Robert Berg were all purchased in Yemen and imported through Simpsons. I would imagine this could work both ways in and out of the country.

Thank you John & Thor.
Thor, your works are great.
I researched through Brownells and Yes... they have the products but.... they can not deliver outside continental US.
Sadly, I will have to research the web for a public rust blue formula and replicate it here with a Chemical supplier.
Is there any place where I can find this Formula?

Your support is really appreciated.

Best regards,
Max

I found an old formula. I do not know how well it works or any particular process to apply it:

Nitric Acid- 4oz.
Hydrochloric Acid- 3oz.
Iron(clean nails) �½ pound
Water(distilled) 1qt.

Acids are mixed together in crockery or glass pot (out of doors!) and nails added. After the nails have dissolved, add water and put into colored/glass stoppered bottles.

I am a little troubled by the part that says "add water". You must be very careful when adding water to an acid solution since there can be a very vigorous reaction (with pure acid it is almost explosive) so I would suggest you must add the water very slowly a little at a time to prevent the acid from splashing all over everything, particularly you.

If you have not already done so, you should also try to find some instructions on rust blueing as it is a rather simple process but requires many steps that involve careful preparation and application.

I hope this helps. Perhaps there are other forum members who can provide more authoritive support.

Ron the solution to the mixing problem was taught to me by a physical science teacher in high school more years ago than I care to admit...

you ALWAYS pour the acid into the water when you mix them... NOT the water into the acid... since we are talking less than 8-ounces into a quart of water, there should not be a violent reaction... as when you do it the other way around...

CAVEAT: Don't try this at home kids... if you are going to do it, wear SAFETY GOGGLES and old clothes, and do it outside and mix them in a container that is acid proof!

I bought a bunch of protective gear when I started mixing bluing ingredients, I am a big chicken. So far, so good! You would think I was going to the moon or somthing! lol You can never be too careful.

Thor seldom shares information about his art form. Take his comments too heart.

Minimum safety equipment for handling hazardous liquids, and rust bluing solutions are indeed hazardous liquids,
1) safety glasses
2) full face safety sheild (yes you need them both)
3) wateproof, acid proof gloves
4) apron.

Take care

Believe it or not I have a full chemical suit and a face shield on a hood all made for this stuff. I am scared to death of acids. The fumes will burn your lungs too! But with much experimentation over a period of 4 years now, much persistance and much daily guidance from the Good Lord, I am now happy with the rust bluing coming out of TLSS. Like they say, becareful out there. I even hit them with a big hammer sometimes, ahhahahahahah! "Must be dem fumes making me a little giddy"

<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/GK1906AEA2.JPG" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/GK1906AEA2.JPG" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/Thor6.jpg" target="_fullview"><img src="http://members.rennlist.com/lugerman/Thor6.jpg" width="400" alt="Click for fullsize image" /></a>