Luger identification
 

Hello everyone. I'm new to the group and would like to find a little more information on a P08 that my father-in-law gave to me. He acquired it from his uncle that was a WWI veteran. His story is that his uncle traded a 1911 for this Luger but he does not know if it was in Europe or the US. Any help with this weapon would be much appreciated. And before anyone asks, I'm not sure how the locking bolt was broken. Thank you again for any help you can give. If any other photos are needed please contact me.

I would guess the locking toggle was mangled by someone unfamiliar with Lugers, who didn't know to pull the top back or press the barrel down on a table top. So, they resorted to using tools - screwdrivers or pliers to try to twist the bolt around.

Do you have a photo of the barrel underside ?
I'm having trouble making out the full serial number (5169 ?) and if it has a suffix

Welcome to the forum.

It appears that you have an alphabet commercial Luger made between 1921 and 1929 by DWM and it's likely in .30 caliber (7.65mm). There is a letter below the four digit number that is part of the serial number but I can't make it out. The letter will give a clue as to the year it was made.

When commercial production serial numbers reached 92000, they went to a four digit serial number and a letter. It is commonly thought that the first alphabet commercial Luger was serial number 2000 i. That may or may not be correct. Once production reached 10000 i, they went to 1 k ~ 10000 k then 1 l etc. The alphabet commercials are the most common Lugers encountered. I wouldn't shoot yours until the locking bolt has been replaced. They are well made and great shooters so get it repaired and enjoy it.

Thanks for the quick replies. The only serial # is 5169 with 69 on the back.

I clearly see what appears to be a letter under the numbers on the barrel and frame.

I agree with Doubs, it's a Alphabet Commercial Luger.
The suffix letter will help to date it.
Here are some examples.

My best guess is "k"

Ah, see what your talking about.

I have owned at least three lugers with the broken take down lever, each likely a screw driver. I was almost guilty of this when I first started, What the @#%^ before someone here told me what to do.

:)

Had one fixed by my friend policelugers (aka Howard Collins) - it was a matching police pistol. The other 1 or 2 I either sold them as is or put in a replacement.

I checked out the letter last night and it appears to be an "a". Im going to try to get a replacement take down bolt to get it back to original as possible. Thanks for all your help. :thumbup:

Welcome to the forum.

Your Luger is most likely sn 5169k which would be from around 1923.

It's a DWM Alphabet commercial Luger that was exported from Germany and imported into the United States. This was done in great numbers. You'll notice the "Made in Germany" stamp on the right side which confirms this, as this was only done on pistols exported to the US by DWM.

If I were to guess - and that's what it would be - I'd agree with mreick that the suffix letter is a k and I'd also agree that the likely date of manufacture is 1923.

I have an Alphabet from the same block, 4375k, in 7.65. Sans Made in Germany. mss542 it is a fun shooter so get yours fixed and take it out. Have fun!
Jim

Commercial serialization style was to hide some of the numbers. Once you get it field stripped, look for more 2-digit numbers on the bottom of the side plate, trigger, front toggle link, breech block, firing pin, and sear bar.

Thanks everyone for the info.

The side plate looks rough!

Indeed.

Though the top and right side fared fairly well, enlarging the pics shows tiny pitting virtually everywhere else on this gun. The side plate seems to have collected some of the biggest ones. My money's on somebody's attempt to clean them up with something waaay too abrasive. Such an unfortunate approach is in line with the same quality of care that the takedown lever has suffered.

Leave it as-is, or purdy it up, but at least give it a good cleaning and lubrication to make sure there's no active rust whatever the case.