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The rifling looks a bit worn, especially in the first 2 photos. Are the first 2 actual photos of a Luger barrel from the chamber with the barrel extension attached?
I believe that the consensus around here is that if it shoots well, no harm, no foul. Some pretty rough bores seem to shoot accurately.
dju

Yes, the barrel is pitted, and worn; not "normal".
But as DJU said, if it shoots , just keep it brushed and clean and enjoy it.

It appears to have quite a bit of fouling that may clean up some with a tight bore brush.

Your last pictures shows strong rifling but the bore certainly has some pitting.

As already said, if it shoots well then it's good to go. Lugers with peppery bores often shoot better than they look.

My Steyr

Trying it again. My Steyr 1912's bore is rougher than that. And it still shoots well with jacketed bullets. But there's lots of leading with cast. After shooting the bore will never clean up the way an unpitted bore will.

I wonder what just a smidgen of lapping compound would do for it?
dju

I own a 1921 DWM alphabet Luger with a bore like a sewer pipe(worse than yours), and it remains very accurate at the distances that I shoot. I shoot both lead and jacketed bullets through it.

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Just clean it properly after every use, avoid heavy loads and corrosive primers.

I've been using BALLISTOL, brass brushes, clean patches and a lot of elbow grease for decades and never had an issue.

I think your barrel is in fair condition with moderate wear/corrosion. Typical.

1) Apply lubricant after cleaning. IMO thicker lubricants, such as greases ( I use Rig) provide more protection.

2) Generally barrels are not harmed by bronze brushes as they are softer than the steel in the barrel. But why bother with 'aggressive'?

When I began collecting Lugers I was concerned about corrosion. I now believe my concern was misplaced. Corrosion cannot be reversed. It does not seem to affect accuracy. I own one shooter with a perfect bore, one with a badly worn/corroded bore, and cannot tell the difference in accuracy. This actually makes sense when you think about it, as corrosion only removes metal and the remaining oxide is soft. As long as enough of the rifling remains to spin the bullet, why would metal removal via corrosion impact accuracy?

As far as 'dirt in the pits' I don't see how a bore brush will help beyond a few strokes at an initial cleaning, as such material is by definition below the average bore surface.

My approach now is to clean and lubricate thoroughly at purchase then stop, then clean occasionally (shooters) or grease the bore of collectibles that I don't shoot, once or twice a year. I find I'm now a happier collector than when I used to furiously scrub and clean worn/corroded bores.

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The only problem with bore pitting and/or 'frosting' is that it will bother future buyers and lower selling price. My 1924 P08 caliber 30, has serious frosting and some pitting, but is very accurate. Now if I were to consider buying a $25,000 gun, then YES, pitting/frosting would concern me.