New Member introduction and question.
 

Hi everybody

A week ago I became a proud owner off a 1920 commercia Luger that my dad had owned before me .Looking it over it seams to be fine except the blueing has worn off pretty badly.
Is there a safety check tutorial somewhere. This gun is almost 100 years old an might not been shot in the past 40. And before starting to shot it it would be nice to check is it functioning correctly.

Especially I noted that the toggle looses spring tension after you pull it over the striker arming threshold . Then the toggle can be moved up and down a half a inch about without eany spring tension . Is this normal ?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Tension
 

No, it is NOT normal. New spring sets are available from Wolff gun springs. Do not fire until repaired, as it can cause major damage to the pistol!

I am sorry, but I have to disagree, it is normal. Once the striker (firing pin) is set/cocked there is no load on the toggle train. This allows the barrel/receiver group to recoil until the toggle knobs impact the frame ramps. At that point the toggle moves up (just like the manual operation that "Stingray75" performed) and the recoil mainspring is engaged by the rear toggle coupling link. The inertia of the recoiling barrel/receiver group continues the rearward movement until the small extension of the rear toggle link contacts the frame and the lug under the chamber contacts the forward frame well halting all rearward motion of the barrel/receiver group. This allows the mainspring to take over and restore the toggle train to battery.
Ron

It is a little tough to follow the "description", but I believe Ron is correct.

When you pull the toggle back further significant tension should be felt, is it?

I misunderstood the function description, my apologies.

If you don't hook the recoil spring/lever with the "S" linkage properly, it won't cycle properly, and will feel loose.

It should be inspected, cleaned and lubricated. There are some decent videos of Luger assembly / disassembly on YouTube. We also publish a useful FAQ reference. Just follow the "FAQ" links at the top of every page.

Check
 

I checked a few of my Lugers, and when the striker is cocked the toggles still want to pull themselves to the closed position ( when the bolt is roughly 1/4 from the breech). To be sure, the spring pressure is not great, but the toggle train still wants to pull flush with the receiver. I was concerned that he may have a bad recoil spring. At no point (on my guns) is the toggle train "loose". Happy 4th everyone, Mike

Hi and Thanks for the replyes.

Tok a closer look at the luger and and measured the opening of the beech. I can pull it just over a quarter of a inch open without spring pressure . After that the spring take up . Additional info is that I can pull the toggle all the way up and if I follow it down lightly holding on the knobs it won't get past the striker threshold and close. But if I let it go freely , it closes fully. Don't know if the last thing helped .

Thank

Toni

Sounds to be within the "range" of spring tension in lugers, some are quite "strong", others noticeably weaker.

It is designed to charge and "arrest/KOK" (evidently big brother does not allow the word for rooster to be written!)the striker if you just let go of the toggle and allow it to close under its spring tension; if it won't then there may be a problem. Sounds like your pistol will close under its own power. ;)

Of course there may be a problem, this is not meant to be a "go ahead" as there are just too many potential factors involved with safe firing.:soapbox: