New to Lugers
 

After wanting one for many years I recently purchased my very first Luger and was wondering about the value. In other words did I do good? Haha

I wanted a shooter and came across this pistol. It is a 42 byf. All numbers match except for the rear toggle pin. The grips appear to be the real bakelite as they passed the hot pin test. The magazine in the photo is not the correct one for the gun from what I understand. With the bakelite grips I was told it should have the bakelite based magazine. I do have a bakelite base magazine coming. Overall the pistol is in very good condition.

I am really looking forward to learning more about these fantastic pistols from you all and may start looking for a numbers matching pistol in the near future.

Now I want a WW1 Luger as well.

Hi Jeff, and welcome to the forum.

You've got a very nice Mauser made Luger. The magazine is likely period correct, even if it's not numbers matching to the gun. There were pistols issued in this timeframe with metal based magazines and wood grips. It just depended on what Mauser could acquire from suppliers.

We have a FAQ document available for free download, just follow the FAQ link at the top of every page.

Lugers made in this period at Mauser make ideal shooters. Yours is so nice, it likely would be considered collectible. You may be able to locate an original rear axle pin with the correct numbering.

I don't know if the bakelite grips necessarily commanded the black plastic magazine bottom. Any combination of variables seems to have been used during the late days of Luger production. What are the WAa markings on the magazine?
I'm not seeing any problems with the gun, possibly excepting the right grip screw, which could just be my eyes. More close-ups would be helpful.
You asked how you did but didn't say what you paid, so I con only say that it seems like that type of Luger, without holster and spare mag, generally sells for somewhere between $1400 and, maybe $1800, but again more photos, and help from the other more learned members would help. (You can always comparison shop over at Simpsons, Ltd, to see what the big boys are asking).
dju

Welcome,

If the mag base has no numbers, it is just as good for a late BYF as a black plastic base fxo mag.

We don't normally blank out numbers here, it curtails the info you might get.
The important picture with the front of frame number with suffix is missing in your photos.

For maximum info you need to post all data; and please use the server here to post the pictures.
"Hosted" off sight pictures will eventually disappear.

Sorry all. I will update with some better photos and more info tonight.

Thank you all for your help with this.

Welcome to our LUGER forum you'll find many knowleadgeable people here.

After all you only wanted a "shooter" so I would not bother whether the mag is time correct or not, even a new Mec-Gar would do.

Regards.

After buying one Luger, beware, you might find it addicting !!

686 shooter

Firstly if your username is a reference to the S&W model 586/686 line of revolvers, I commend your fine taste in revolvers.

Secondly, I have a rear toggle pin numbered 00 that would “match” your acquisition. PM me if interested.

I paid $1,000 Canadian for it. That works out to $748 U.S. dollars at today's exchange rate.

The block number is an M.

If you go back to the top I have added some better photos and uploaded them to the server here.

Portuguese procurement are from 149m to 5322m , the last to the 2197n went to the bulgarians .....if I'm right !

686, thanks for the new pictures and posting them here.

I'm having a hard time making that suffix an "m" , sure looks like an "n" to me.

Here is an "m" from one of my pistols and two different "n"s:

Well that's kind of depressing that this pistol went to Portugal and not to the Wermacht. But I still have a nice wartime Luger with the German acceptance stamps, so I'm happy with that.

And now that I purchased a bakelite base magazine I'll have 2 correct style magazines for it.

I really appreciate all of you lending your knowledge to this. Thank you very much.

Don't be depressed. These things all have a story to tell which unfortunately usually goes untold, but yours has a slightly clearer trail to follow.
dju

Now I am not very knowledgeable about this, but now you have me questioning my "m" Don. It looks a lot like the first "n" on the list below doesn't it?

Does anyone else have an example of a byf 42 "m" or "n" we can compare mine to?

I think your pistol looks most like the first depiction of the “n” but it does have a little extra stem that makes it look like an “m”, but it doesn’t match any of the shown “m” variations on the chart either.

Do you think it looks like the first "n" on this chart?

I have spent hours scouring the internet and I cant find anything that looks like mine confirming it's an "m". Everything I find that resembles my mark is an "n". I'm confused.

It's possible that the letter is like the first "n" with a little ding in the metal to confuse things. Get out a 10X magnifier and you might be able to discern whether that the extra little "tail" is is part of the stamped letter, or just a bit of damage.

Welcome to the forum, Jeff. You did GREAT price-wise!

With all respect to my Portuguese friend, 'M's have 2 full upper loops, "N"s have only 1.
I do believe that is a poorly struck(slight bounce" "n".

But what is one loop between friends? :)

Here is a closer look at it. Why couldn't the Germans have used normal letters like everyone else?