New to forum - my 1938 P08
 

I am now the proud owner of a P08 that belonged to my wife's uncle who served during WW2 in Germany and brought this back with him at war's end.
As you will see from the pictures shown here all parts (with the exception of the magazine) are unique to this weapon.
Since I am new to this forum I would like to know the possible value (although I doubt I'll be selling anytime soon) and also why it is so difficult to pull the toggle all the way back to the full open position.

M:
Welcome aboard, and that is a very nice Luger that you have inherited. The photos are a bit dark to see much detail, but everything looks good from what I can see.
A ballpark WAG for a 1938 Luger, average to maybe a bit better than average, matching except the magazine, would be around $1500.
Nothing is jumping out at me as far as why it may be unusually difficult to cycle at the rear. Make certain that the safety is off and try it without the magazine just to eliminate drag as the culprit. (I would ask others to look closely at the breechblock in the last photo.) Does it otherwise function correctly, dry fire, live fire, etc?
dju

What I have found with a couple of the P08's I've acquired is that they have old oil in them that has oxidized and turned into something like rubber cement. After a good cleaning with Hoppe's, and some fresh lube with a good synthetic oil, they hand cycle much smoother and easier.

Double check that the little hooks on the lever that attaches to the recoil spring have properly engaged with the "S" shaped linkage on the toggle train in the receiver. if this misses the hooks, things can go wrong.

On first glance, your Luger looks to be all matching and in original finish. If this is true it would be considered collectible. Look at the inside of the trigger plate for the numbers "37" or "38". That plus the last digits of the serial on the outside confirms it's original to the pistol.

Be sure that the dissassembly locking bolt at the front of the frame is properly installed, and not binding or blocked when in it's horizontal position. There is a little flat slightly "L" shaped spring that holds it in the operate position.

We have published a very useful reference PDF FAQ document that you'd probably like. Just follow the FAQ links at the top of evry forum page.

Welcome to the forum.

Thanks for all the replies
 

dju - I tried cycling the toggle with and without the magazine (safety off). Same amount of effort. I haven't live fired it yet and maybe not ever. I have dry fired it multiple times and it fires OK.

gunbug - I cleaned and oiled it but didn't feel any difference cycling the toggle. When I had it stripped down I tried to actuate the recoil spring by hand and found it hard to move upward.

mrerick - the little hooks appear to engage properly. you mentioned the "disassembly locking bolt at the front of the frame is properly installed, and not binding or blocked when in it's horizontal position.
There is a little flat slightly "L" shaped spring that holds it in the operate position. I'm not sure what you mean by this could you sent me a pic?
Again, thanks all

Only the end of the little "L" shaped spring is externally visible. The other end is below the serial number around the curve on the frame.

This is the locking bolt I'm talking about:

The pistol is probably operating normally. A lot of folks are not used to the toggle action and find it awkward to hand cycle. The recoil spring is somewhat stiff, and needs to be.

recoil spring tension
 

I need to find someone in my local area that is familiar with this type of gun to determine if mine is normal. Unfortunately, I am out of town for the next couple of weeks so I'll have to wait until I get back.

What part of Florida?
dju

I concur with the above statements about how tight they are. When I first got mine it seemed so heavy at first. So long as you don’t feel or hear metal grinding I wouldn’t worry about it.

nice bring back!

Do you know any story on it?

I have a WW2 1939 S/42 that I bought from a friend that he traded 2 cartons of cigs for from another GI.

Ed

Florida
 

dju -I'm on the West Coast of Florida about an hour's drive from Tampa.
Ed - unfortunately all I know is he brought it back with him.Don't know how he got it.
HerrKaiser - thanks for the input!

mrerick - I did locate the little L shape clip. Aside from being dirty it appears to be working OK.

So... are you still having problems cycling the Luger? Is it clean? Lubricated properly?

While handling, ensure it's unloaded.

Try cycling the Luger with the safety off and the magazine removed. Is it binding somewhere?

Very nice Luger.
Probably that pistol only needs a good cleaning, soak it with BALLISTOL, then after a few hours brush it properly with an old toothbrush then wipe it.
If it's all matching do not shoot it.
Congrats on your heirloom.

mrerick - I did clean it but probably not as well as I should have. I also lightly oiled it before I started posting. I don't feel any binding anywhere just hard to cycle by hand.
I'll take 'luger.parabellum" recommendation and buy some BALLISTOL and clean and oil it again.

The recoil spring on Lugers is stiff, and needs to be that way. If one is not familiar with the proper method of cycling the cannon assembly(bolt, etc.) it will seem quite awkward, and difficult. The Luger is markedly different from cycling a 1911, Sig, S&W auto, etc., and it just takes a bit of practice. If you can cycle the Luger with little effort, you have a out of spec Luger, and one you do NOT want to fire.

There are a lot of moving parts in just the upper toggle assembly.
Get the pins out and clean it a lot. It should move smoothly, like links in a bicycle chain.
Lugers don't handle mud and dirt well.
A mis-matched part could be a problem, but it looks like it's all original, so far.
You photos are nice and sharp, but very dark. It's a challenge to photograph well.
Take it outside on a sunny day or use some of the new LED lighting strips.