How to change Luger Main spring?
 

Hi!
Do you know can I change Luger main spring (recoil spring) without bringing out fuse?
Are there any tools for this? Or I have to do that manualy?
Currently, I have to cover my slide when reloading by my hand.
The spring has 19 turns now. I'd like to install 22 turns main spring.

There's a place in Luger forum, titled Repairs, Restoration & Refinishing, which has a thread titled, "Problem solved: main spring replacement made easy!" It has a few photos. Might be useful to you.

Welcome to the forum!

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=38886

One of the pics in that thread is of a frame clamped to a table with a tool removing the mainspring. There are some brave souls who accomplish this task by holding the frame in their hands. I do not recommend that. A C-clamp and a couple pieces of scrap wood and a 90º tool like Jim Solomon's (or a cotter pin puller) will avoid spilled blood. :thumbup:

What is 'bringing out the fuse'??? :confused:

Edit: Just for fun, I removed my mainspring and re-installed it. Here's a couple tips based on my experience...

- Wear safety glasses.
- Sweep the floor real good. Pick up anything sitting on the floor and put it in another room. You don't want anything on the floor except table legs.
- Expect the mainspring and guide to shoot off in different directions, several times.
- Expect to spend several minutes searching for the mainspring & guide.
- Have several picks or small screwdrivers within reach.
- A well lit workplace is a must.
- Don't get discouraged when it doesn't work the first time. It took me three tries today, and I have done this maybe 10 - 15 times.
- If the finish on your frame is really nice, consider a layer of masking tape on the surfaces you're clamping against.
- It helps to remove the magazine button and spring, and the safety lever, safety bar, and pin. I took a pic of my mainspring removal just before I began. It isn't the way others do it but it should give you an idea of how a gearhead does it. (The long rod compresses the mainspring and the short rod prys the hook off the coil. Long rod then pulls the mainspring out. This is the dangerous part - the spring is still under compression).

Sheepherder has good advice on this project. Jim Solomon's is makes the job so much easier. I wouldn't even try to change a main spring without that tool. The bonus is Jim's tool works equally perfect on M1 carbine hammer springs.

Very easy with this tool : 2 mn to remouve and instal again the spring
/

Jim's tool available through this thread (which should be a sticky)... :rolleyes:

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=31945

I meant before changing the spring I need to remove the fuse and its lever. But this can be done without removing?

Fuse = Safety lever??? :confused:

Yes, it can be done without removing anything from lower (except grips). I use an aluminum block under the front & rear frame straps and a steel bar inside the magazine well, with another aluminum block to press against the steel bar. That raises the frame up high enough to clear the safety lever. Careful placement clears the magazine button and safety bar as well. :)

But there are many ways to change out the mainspring. I have read here that some members hold the frame in their hands and change it out, using Jim's tool. They mention pressing it against a table. I am not that strong. :(

Well, I'm not so strong either. But I'll try....

I have very strong spring.. New one.
https://www.facebook.com/paul.postoy...4777082884187/

There is at least one YouTube video on how to do it. Jim's tool makes it easier but it can be done hand-held using a rigid steel rod of sufficient diameter to fill or nearly fill the hole at the base of the recoil spring bar.

I don't create a new topic

Yesterday I 've been shooting .. I decided to check before changing the spring.
The first shot-shell was not thrown out, but pinched between the receiver and the shutter. Then three rounds fired normally. Then it was "not thrown" again. So it's not a matter of spring?

I doubt it; more likely a ammo issue- doesn't seem hot enough.

Brand and type ammo used?

Be sure the luger is clean and well oiled, use oil not grease.

These ones.

When an empty cartridge is extracted but not ejected and is caught between the breechblock and the chamber and projects above the breechblock that is called a 'stovepipe' malfunction. In my opinion a too-strong mainspring may contribute to 'stovepipe' due to the action not fully cycling. That malfunction would not normally be caused by a too-weak mainspring.

In your first post, you say you want to change the mainspring because you 'have to cover my slide when reloading by hand". I don't understand what you mean, could you describe whatever the pistol is doing more clearly?

Before changing the mainspring consider performing a tape test, which can be found by searching the forums. The tape test will give useful information for evaluating mainspring performance.

Since it "works" correctly part of the time, I think it is more likely you are not holding the luger firmly or it is binding or needs lubrication.

I would think the PPU ammo is ok.

I would also like to know what "cover the slide" means.

Sometimes the cartridge does not go completely into the chamber, and the shutter has to be manually closed. By small blow on top of it.
The gun looks like new one,but it was two different pistols before...

Then I'ii try change mag,may be some problem in.

I've changed a mainspring without the tool. It involved both hands, a counter, the edge of a sink, my hip, and a lot of recitation from "The Sailor's Guide to Magic Words and Incantations".
Get the tool, or make one. Jim's version is a work of art, and I have no problem removing/installing the spring by hand with it.

The OP's Luger (assembled from two donor Lugers) may need some attention to hand fitting and lubrication.



There were a range of recoil mainsprings used on a variety of Lugers, and we have the table in the Luger FAQ PDF document available on this site. It lists them by wire size and coil count.



If there is any variation in the way the slide or toggle train movement cycles between sloppy loose feeling and tight binding, this could relate to fitting problems. Some detailed attention to how the action feels as it cycles without the spring in place might be useful. Also the tape test on the back of the frame to see how hard the toggle heel impact is on the frame.



I would address the hand grip and grip support first. Then start looking at the precision fitting of parts being smooth and properly close. Then perhaps the recoil spring.



The Luger has a precision balance in it's action operation, and many things can disrupt it.