X-Ray or Cutaway View of P08???
 

Does anyone have an X-Ray or cutaway view of the P08??? I need to troubleshoot a problem and a cutaway showing the relation of the barrel extension to the takedown lever would be most instructive.

(The animated GIF image at Pistole Parabellum doesn't show this area).

Thank You! :)

What exactly is the problem? What is it doing or not doing that is the problem? There is a tiny spring (not a coiled spring) mounted in the take down lever bore that can be worn. Simple replacement and they are readily available.

Check the Luger Mechanicals e-book by Gerard Henrotin… it should have cutaway illustrations that will help you. Please identify the issue you are experiencing...

A picture is worth a dozen words... :)

Wow, looks like a long receiver on a short frame but you would know if that was the case. So my only other guess would be either the lug on the receiver or the lug on the take down lever is worn/damaged.

We have a winnah!!! :D

And the consequence of that is the toggle ducktail hits the frame when racking the barrel extension, instead of dropping behind it. I have to rack it like an M1900 (pull back then up) rather than like a P08 (just pull up). :(

So I want to explore various remedies; shims, weld build up, peening, etc.

Pic of ducktail hitting frame...

And I found a cutaway of a M1900 to study...

BTW: The protrusion is .035" past the frame...

That is a Bulgarian frame.
Ron

So, should I call it a 'M1900-Style'??? :confused:

may be some help here
https://drawingdatabase.com/wp-conte...ction-plan.png

Could be the frame was ground to remove the serial number? It looks to be at an angle to me.

Thank You! That one is quite nice! I can see every detail! ;)

Sorry, I should have identified it better. It's an Aimco clone. Aimco [Armas Intl. Mfg. Co. Inc.] puts the serial on the right side. :)

Aimco- all bets are off! :) I'd bet on a burr or deformation somewhere.

I would try a "good" upper on the lower, and the upper on a known good frame.
See how they fit.

Search YouTube or Google for 'Luger Animation' and similar. Here are a couple, there may be others. I have found the see-through aspects helpful in researching some function issues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DZ-DnTI_A8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aw9g-CcrGW0

I know! But it's an affliction...A disease...Stainlessitis!!! :crying:

And there's another one coming!!! :eek:

Oh, the horror... :(

An X-ray.

Aimco...sheesh, my face is a little bit red. The lack of a lanyard loop threw me off. I thought it was a polished Bulgarian. Should have looked a little bit closer at the toggle knobs.

Thank you all! I believe I have what I need now. :)

:o Oops, I don't remember noticing this. If I did, I probably chalked it up to the reputed nature of these beasts for their huge tolerances among all the parts. The gun had worked OK during the several mags of ammo I put through it while I was its foster parent. I'd addressed a couple of issues involving metal displaced from use, and this issue would also be good to fix, if possible, to continue the pistol's "improvement."

(For everyone else reading this thread, I'll confess to selling this pistol to Rich, who was finally able to pick it up this week. I'd acquired it from another forum member several years ago and decided to pass it on after Rich tracked me down as the current owner, based on my posts in the WTS when it was sold to me back then.)

Now that we're into this issue, I'd go with the approach of building up the front surface of the lug. But first It would be good to check to see that this "adjustment" would affect anything else, such as the side plate's interface with the end of the sear bar/plunger.

If you are used to 'racking the slide' as you must do on a 1900-style Luger then it is not evident. (Pull back, then up). It does not affect function when shooting. :)

The advice on Unintended Consequences is sound. I'm trying to affix a small shim to the lug but I don't have a glue strong enough to hold it in place. I do have SuperGlue but I'm not sure I can get it off afterward. I would not want to contaminate a weld. :(