1900 will not cycle
 

Took my new to me 1900 30 Luger to the range today

used PPU factory ammo.

first round fires, had to **** the toggle to reset the sear to make the second round fire.

whay's among??

I did lube the toggle and the slide

Thanks

Perhaps the disconnector plunger isn't resetting? I would read your post carefully, as I'm unsure exactly what happened. Your description is unclear. Please proofread your posts before posting. Don't hurry, be as clear with your information as possible, that way someone may be able to provide a good answer.

The first round chambers and fires and ejects.

the second round chambers, but the striker/hammer appears not

to be resetting.

by pulling the toggle partially up, but not ejecting the chambered

round and pushing the toggle down the second round will fire

This is a newly acquired Luger, although I can hand load, I tried it

out with factory

Thanks for your help

Areas to check:
-Plunger on end of sear bar and its spring, should move freely but with very light spring tension
-sear engagement surface- on striker and sear bar
-spring that returns sear bar
-grease in any of these areas that might prevent full motion
-trigger and trigger lever engagement

You don't mention if this is matching or not.

There are lots of related threads if you do a search on firing problems.

Can you repeat the problem with an empty gun, and does it matter if you partially retract the toggle versus pulling it back all the way?
dju

I replaced an original side plate on a Luger with an aftermarket side plate and experienced the exact same issue. The problem was, the transfer lever (aka "trigger lever") in the new side plate did not have an adequate bevel where it contacted the sear plunger. The bevel is necessary to enable the sear plunger to slide under the transfer lever during the reset process. Five minutes with a file and then polish with a sharpening stone fixed it.

This is one example of a malfunction in the area of "trigger and trigger lever engagement" description in post #4 above; other malfunctions could create the same issue.

To see if the issue is plunger reset, you might perform the following test preferably with dummy rounds (snap caps), although I suppose you could use live rounds at the range. Chamber the first round and pull the trigger, releasing the firing pin. Keep the trigger fully depressed as the next round is chambered. With the new round in the chamber, slowly release the trigger and you should hear a very light click as the sear plunger resets under the transfer lever. This should help isolate the problem location: no click=plunger reset is the issue, click=sear plunger reset is not the issue.

I agree with the above comment, that the disconnector plunger in the sear bar is not getting under the trigger lever in the side plate for a second shot. Also if your side plate is mismatched, it's possible that it has a later standard trigger lever inside, instead of the correct shorter M1900 lever. TH

Check to see, when the trigger is pulled, if the side plate flexes out away from the gun under trigger tension.
dju

Had that happen with a customers P-08, which had been heavily buffed and reblued. They had buffed the tongue on the sideplate so much, that when you would pull the trigger, the sideplate would push away from the frame, causing it to fire "occasionally". A tiny pinprick tig weld on the tongue edge, some minor fitting, and it worked reliably after that.

I looked at it again

after cocking it and pulling the trigger for the fist shot and keeping

the trigger back I cannot pull the toggle up to recock until I let the

trigger go forward, Then I can pull the toggle up. Hope this makes it

a little more clear.

There should be no reason why you cant pull up the toggle after dropping the firing pin, and holding the trigger in the rear position... In my experience, there is no mechanical interference that could cause this in the pistol's engineering.

The only reason I can think of why you might not be able to raise the toggle in such an action is if the safety is placed in the "on" position before you let go of the trigger... try your test without the sideplate and see if it still won't let you raise the toggle. To drop the firing pin without the sideplate, just press inward on the forward portion. I also suggest you clean and lubricate all the moving parts and test again.

Don't forget to open the 1900 toggle, one has to pull back on the toggle knobs before pulling up, due to the latch present.

Like John said, you should be able to re-charge the luger while holding the trigger down- this is what happens when the pistol is fired and why it has a disconnector. If the toggle latch does not have it, then something else is amiss.

To the excellent advice already given I would add make sure the grip safety remains fully depressed as you cycle the action.

Up date

I got it back from the smith, he said the trigger lever on the side

plate was not fitted, he rounded it off (not sure which end) it works

now. Either the original one was replaced or it was never fitted,

that maybe the reason of the nice condition it is in.

It shoots quite well for a 118 year old pistol