Swapping Complet toggle assembly
 

Hi

I just bought a 1940 42 Mauser. I originally wanted just a shooter but I bought a beautiful example from a member here. I also bought a complete breechblock, ejector and grips from the Lugerdoc so I don't break any numbers parts as mine is all matching except for the magazine. To make matters worse I just won on gunbroker a complete 42/S toggle assembly including the breechblock. The question I have is if I just swap the complete toggle assembly should I have it check for headspace? As both assembly's should be identical I think I should be ok. But I just want to make sure.

Thanks
Sandro

While a gunsmith may advise differently, I'd probably swap and go.
dju

It's worth a try. But ultimately no guarantees...

As said above gunsmith smart thing.

I have done it a number of times, observing if issues and have not had any.

If you are uncomfortable but too cheap/lazy to consult a gunsmith, as am I, load only one round the first time out and then examine the fired brass for signs of bulging , splitting, etc.
Or contact one of our forum members like LugerDoc or G.T, and see what they have to say.
Or get a set of GO and NO-GO gauges and see for yourself.
Good luck and happy shooting.
dju

The 9mm Luger round headspaces on the mouth of the cartridge. There is a ridge in the chamber that the mouth of the cartridge rests upon.

The toggle train length determines how close the breech face is to the head of the cartridge when it rests in battery. As it grips the cartridge in the extractor, it must be long enough to press the cartridge mouth against that ridge in the chamber.

As long as you're not trying to mix components from different frame length guns it will probably be correct and within tolerance. You can do measurements if needed, or get a set of 9mm headspace gauges (especially the "Field" gauge) to ensure it's right. The train should not close on a field gauge.

Marc

I have swapped out a few complete toggle trains with no problem. You want to pay close attention that everything moves smoothly and no binding. Purchase, or make some dummy rounds to cycle through it before using live ammo.

Thanks. I'm sure since its mil spec it should be ok but I'll have a gunsmith check it out when I get the new toggle. Better safe than sorry

Chances of a problem are slim.

There is no difference in a long receiver and short receiver from the breech face back.
The extra "length" is all at the front and they do require a different length shank on the barrel; so the toggles are identical(within tolerance).

Here is a long shank barrel(made for the long receiver) installed in a "short" receiver using a spacer ring. The difference in the receivers is approx 1/10", i.e. the thickness of the ring shown.

Having things looked at is a wise decision in my opinion.

These guns are getting to be close to a 100 years old, passing thru a lot of hands, and originally were hand fitted. To me, numbers matching, means nothing to the shooter type; it is the fit that matters in actual use.

The Luger breeching system is one that has a cut for the extractor and one for the feed ramp. Both intrude into the chamber proper. How original ..........is original? Cartridge heads are strengthened at the head, and a little ways up the case body, not a long ways though. So the more case exposure you have, the more potential for issues occur. There are dwgs around that show the original numbers for this criteria if so interested.

One always hears about headspace in firearms. Headspace is only one safety criteria for a shooting weapon. Oddly enough, one could remove 1/2 of the shank of a Luger, and it could still pass headspace dimensions, but of course, would be completely unsafe.