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Bent Ear
1 Attachment(s)
Can this bent ear be repaired? At what cost?
Don't know how this happened, but I need advice. I am looking at buying this 1917 Artillery Luger, with 90-93% finish left for $2000. Thanks - Geo |
I'd like to know just exactly how they managed to bend that!
dju |
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How ? Hammer. How to fix it, another hammer, judiciously applied; but see my first comment. I'd give $500 for it, and hope the ear did not crack when straightened!:evilgrin: |
Would it be reasonable to use a vise, where you can apply gentle pressure and cushion the finish with a couple of pieces of hardwood? Would heating the bent side help?
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Wouldn't that also mess up the alignment of the safety lever? Is the rear axle pin the correct length (were they trying to accommodate the flange of a navy pin, or something like that?)
I'd personally stay away from this one too... |
Never use impact to bend it back into place. And yes, I'd pass on this one. You have no idea if there are micro cracks or if it's been weaked in some way. And straightening it, even if successful will further damage the metal. You don't want that flying apart in your face. That's a parts gun.
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I, for one, would probably take a chance on it IF the price was right. I'm thinking of stripping the frame and clamping it down tight to a good surface (right side), fabbing a spacer block to fit in between and then drawing the bent ear down with slow gradual pressure. But again, the price would have to be right.
dju |
Good eye!
I'd pass on it, too. |
Thanks for the advice - you are all very convincing. I'm going to pass on this one too!
But Don, I honestly don't know where I'm going to find a 90%+ original Artillery fo $1500. I've been looking on and off for a couple years. - Geo |
I'm kind of with DJU on this one. Any forces exerted on the "ear" by its function of "breaking" the locked aspect of the joint will not be exerted in a way so as to take any advantage of any potential weakness. With the proper set-up, as David suggests, it can be done gently and effectively.
I'd check the axle pin and safety lever, of course, but if they were OK--even if the safety lever also needs adjustment--I would bite for perhaps $1k, and bring it back. If everything else checks out, I would not be afraid to shoot it. |
There is no way I would shoot this gun before, or after, fixing. You have to ask yourself, what blunt force trauma caused this damage? It didn't "just happen" and I suspect that the left frame ear is not the only part that was affected. Also, if you look closely, you will see that the receiver fork appears to be twisted slightly clockwise as seen from the back.
My advice, Geo, is find another $500.0 and buy a gun you will be proud to own and feel safe to shoot. Regards, Norm |
I have a beautiful Artillery with a bulged barrel (which by the way shoots very well...). Maybe if we stored the 2 together something magical would happen?
dju |
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I would have to side with DonVoight on this one... Unless you have some money burning a hole in your pocket, and the spirit of an adventuresome machinist/blacksmith... this pistol would be a project to learn on...
I believe also like Ithacaartist David, that "With the proper set-up" and an experienced machinist hand, this pistol could at least "look" normal again... and possibly function. The ear would have to be properly re-bent COLD... Any heating that took place would alter the temper of the ear... which you may not recognize must be tough enough to withstand being slammed by the toggle knob each and every shot. Any action taken to soften the frame ear would mean the end of life for that ear. I would love to see a complete photo essay of all of the parts that shown in clear focus closeups, and from many angles to see if the cause of the damage could be determined, and to make a final judgement on whether or not the pistol is salvageable as a shooter... Without that evaluation, I would place the value at the price of a "parts kit"... Maybe $500-600 range. The frame could always be used for rough fitting and sanding new custom grips for Lugers. |
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