Eugen shoots his Luger!
 

After three months of ownership I finally decided to shoot my 1939 Mauser P.08 (military stamps & match #, except mags). First off I just have to say that the experience was simply thrilling! Actually it was better than thrilling. I know this is nothing new for most of you and you probably can’t even recall your ‘first Luger time’. But, this was my first outing and the occasion was pure bliss. :)

First the good news: nothing broke. Yes, I was worried about that, despite many of you reassuring me that Lugers aren’t made out of glass. The experience was both satisfying and electrifying.
I didn’t use the two period correct mags that came with the gun. I used an ERMA mag that I bought from MikeB and two recently purchased new Mec-Gars. I used the recommended Winchester WB 115gn RN and she went bang every trigger pull. I intended to only shoot 16 rounds, but before I knew it I put 40 down the pipe.

At 50’ I didn’t hit anything until I got used to the trigger and sight picture. My Lyman gauge told me that my trigger pull averages 9.2lbs. Is that normal?

I am right handed and was hitting low and to the left, so I probably was jerking the trigger. I tend to do that. I got better with almost every shot. To no one’s surprise, I got extremely accurate when I stepped up to the 25’ marker. Notice the marks on my “homemade” steel plate target.
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The only operating problem I encountered is when I first swapped mags. With the second mag inserted and the toggle back, everything locked up. That is, I initially could not get the toggle to return to battery and I couldn’t get the mag release button to release the mag. I put the safety on and fiddled with it for a while until I got the mag to drop and then got the toggle back to battery. I reinserted the mag and racked without incident. Perhaps it was just newbie operator error. It did not happen again. Everything functioned well. Some brass flew 15’ to my guesstimate, so no apparent extraction or ejection issues. LOL However, I did notice most of the brass had unusual and slight dent marks near the opening that I am not used to seeing with other pistols’ brass. What’s up with dat?! :confused:

I took a few photos of my range, bench and gear. Afterward I did a thorough cleaning and tucked it away. I brought my HK P30s along, but didn't shoot it.

Oh, did I forget to tell you what a thrill it was to shoot my 1939 Luger?!

I have had the lockup on an empty magazine. I think it happens when the follower rides up too far and jams. It should just push the hold-open up but it rides alongside instead.

My cure is to stick my finger in the mag well opening and push the follower down manually. It only hurts for a short while. :rolleyes:

Great story Eugen, and good shooting. That is a small target for sure.

I think what sheepherder described is called "luger finger", a la "garand thumb". ;)

My first time I underestimated the lugers' force and power! Fits like a glove!!

First. Good man! And then...

I still remember my first Luger shooting and it wasn't even mine a buddy lent it to me.

9.2 is average for an original P.08 trigger. 4 to 3 are only normal for good trigger jobs (and are better to be left for someone who really knows Lugers, definitely not a job for "Bubba").

With a 9.2 trigger all I can say is that you've done quite well.

My 1938 P.08 also gets locked open sometimes, but I can release the mag. But as I routinely remove the holdopen for competition I'm not much bothered.

V dented brass also happens to me, some 5% of them. If it happens a lot maybe a new ejector spring will cure it.

A few more pics. Note the slightly deformed/warped brass. The gun functioned well, and better than I expected. Is this deformity represent any particular issue?:confused:

I don't see anything particularly wrong with your brass.

I can only usually find 1/2 of mine. ;)

I lose 1 out of 5, indoors, all doors closed. No idea where they go. I did find one on top of a florescent light... :rolleyes:

It was 30 Luger so I know it was mine. I'm the only member who shoots 30 Luger. :)

My Texas Stainless 9mm does pretty much the same thing. I marked some rounds for orientation and discovered that they were hitting the left, inside corner of the extension's slots so violently that it raised a burr on one side of that slanted mark. I looked at the extractor, and its claws weren't symmetrical, the left side was visibly longer than the right. I dressed it back with a needle file, and now, although the shells still suffer the mark, there is no burr raised--and I'm happy enough with that. If the brass is just bent, I figure the reloading dies will handle the situation. Replacement parts for the Houston SS Lugers are apparently non-existent, but I was lucky that a Mauser ejector fit in the place of the original stainless part, which had been over-ground, was thin/weak because of that, and bent. Most of these American-made pistols have a reputation for sloppy fit and even sloppier finish, at least-- There is play everywhere, and they're over-buffed to the extent that flat surfaces were made wavy and nice, sharp corners are rare. I understand that stainless steel was a material from which the P.08 was never intended to be constructed, and using it to make the guns was quite a challenge--adventures in tolerances, hardening, and different specs and configurations are displayed by examples branded by the different companies that ordered them (Stoeger, Mitchell).

Eugen, Sound like you need a bit softer recoil spring. If you present orig spring has move than 20 turns, it's set up to fire WW2 SMG ammo. It should have about 19 turns for postwar commerical 9mm ammo. SH, sounds like you could use a new HO spring. i have these parts in stock. TH

Thanks, Doc (I use that phrase a lot where I work), I need to check that spring turn thing out. Nice tip. :)

I may need to purchase some other parts from you so I can park my numbered originals if I decide to shout this bad boy more often.

Just a note to anybody planning to use an indoor range for their first Luger shoot. The ejection is basically straight up for most Lugers and that can be detrimental to overhead bulbs, if your range has individual lights in each shooting lane. After breaking two bulbs at my local range, I learned to either hang back just a bit or extend past the shooting "bench" just enough to get out from under the light at the position.

Thank you for the very informative post. Great info there.

In my limited experience I tend to agree. I favor German design and mostly German made pistols like Sig and HK. Quality engineering and control seems a cut above. Even Kimber, premium priced US made pistols, falls short from my experience.

I saw a Kevin Costner movie a while back [years ago] that had him shooting his semi-auto pistol with a baggie over his hand & pistol. (He was a hitman). Despite the obvious impairment to sighting, it seemed like a good idea for catching brass. :)

I've tried mounting a minnow net on an Xmas tree stand, it worked pretty good for side-ejectors, not so much for Luger/Mauser/Nambu. :(

There's a TV trailer for NCIS: Los Angeles that shows the Seal dude with some kind of deflector/catcher mounted on his M4 carbine. I've seen something like that but it used a detachable plastic bag. You can see the ejected cases and they don't get tossed all over the place. Haven't seen that lately.

I also wonder why the NCIS guy bothers with a deflector (or catcher, whatever it is). I know it's fantasy TV but they usually have a purpose (like Costner's baggie). :confused:

Indoor range?! We don't have those out on the prairie. LOL
Heck, everywhere is a shooting range, except within my town (pop 6,000) and then that is frowned upon. I am glad I don't live in town.

alanint, I hear you regarding the brass ejection direction. That makes perfect sense, given the Luger's design. But, from my exceptionally limited experience, the brass on my Luger definitely sailed right and in one case almost 15 feet!? :confused:

Eugen,

You can "soften" the trigger pull without any permanent modifications to your Luger by finding a small spring to temporarily replace the spring behind the trigger.

I have found that many of these springs are quite heavy. I remember that I used half of a ball point pen spring once and it lowered the trigger pull below 4 lbs.

Just experiment a little, ( a visit to the spring assortment at a local hardware store may be in order) and put the original spring in an envelope in a "safe" place.

Let us know how you make out on your experiment.

John, thank you sir for that recommendation. I was just inquiring regarding the OEM specs for the trigger weight to see if mine was close to OEM or tinkered with. I am no competitive shooter. I just shoot paper and metal ....and, hey, let's shoot that dead tree limb sticking out over there. LOL

I guess I am the odd guy in the room; I am OK with (OEM like) longer and heavier pulls for safety reasons and in this case originality. ;)

That's why is a good idea to wear a baseball hat(or similar) if you wear glasses;)

Here at the range, when shooting FASS(STGW) 90 we install a deflector, so that the brass does not hit the guy laying in the next lane. Might be something similar for the SWAT guy.

Does a shooting range make more money on renting the space or collecting the hundreds of brass shells?

They go to the place where screws, springs and other small gun parts go... the twilight zone...