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Current Luger values
I am new to Lugers ( not new to gun collecting). When it comes to more common models ( like my S/42 1938) what main factors determine the value ?
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Since we are not including rare variations, then it would probably come down to originality (matching numbers, original finish, grips, etc.) and condition (percentage of remaining bluing, any rust, pitting, chips from the grips, etc.). Where you live may play a smaller role, and what the market is willing to pay is obviously significant too but the internet has leveled those playing fields somewhat.
Add-ons such as holster, spare mag, tool, ammo, bring-back documents, also figure into the final price too. dju |
I agree with what David said above - in addition - there are factors to each collector, shooter or accumulator
- era (WW1, Weimar, WW2, Vopo) - type (commercial, military) - type (contract for other countries) - overall looks |
Thank You. I bought my first luger for 800.00. S/42 1938 it's an all matching parts that I can see with exception of magazine , typical chip on left side of the grips, original finish but with some light rust , very good bore. The seller called it a shooter grade. Is this about right ?
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But do be careful, lugers are habit forming.:cheers: |
Welcome, Alex. I'd say, from its description thus far, that you did very well. However, I'll now invoke the old refrain, "Show us some pics!"
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I see some potential here.
Looks like it would benefit from a good cleaning (take off the grips and use a parts washer if need be), then oil/lube it well. And also we have guys who can repair the grips by recutting the checkering and filling the chip. Or shoot it as-is. dju |
If your Luger is all matching and in the original finish, it would be considered collectible. It's hard to judge these things from the photos, but what I can see looks right. If it is all right then you paid just over half of it's collector value. If not, as a high grade "shooter" it would still be worth $1200.
What's the bottom of the magazine look like? It's from a slightly later period than the Luger, but if it's a "fxo" or "E/122" or "E/37" marked it's got value too. The grips are authentic, but apparently not matched to the gun. Look inside the side plate, and confirm that the numbers in there correspond to the first digits of the Luger's serial number (either the same digits, or the digits plus 1). Look at the recoil spring linkage mounted at the rear of the receiver. Is it in the white? Is the trigger bar in the trigger plate in the white? It will be worth having the grips reconditioned and repaired. |
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Yours could be called an entry-level collectable, IMHO. It can certainly be shot, but there are rattier guns out there with mismatched numbers that would be less of a loss should a numbered part break.
Collectable vs. shooter is often in the eye of the beholder... dju |
Alex
Welcome to our Luger forum from the other side of the Atlantic, and enjoy being part of it. I think as far as Lugers are concerned yours is quite a good start, but you've not told us if your goal is to collect or just to get a few examples of Lugers and then start shooting them too. |
Val7711, welcome to the forum. I am a new Luger owner as well having just purchased my first Luger last month. Sounds like you have a fine first Luger yourself there. You will learn a lot from some great folks on this board. Start my reading the FAQ section.
I don't know the value of your gun, but my impression is you got it for a good price. :cheers: |
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