If dry firing a luger is not good....
 

Eugen, the newbie, has encountered a dilemma. If dry firing a Luger is not good, and I clearly believe that it is not, is decocking a Luger possible?

As a new and inexperienced owner I use snap caps to protect the firing pin assembly, but when storing the pistol for the day to remove the snap cap, one must open the breach (I hope I am using the correct terms). When I open the breach or pull slide back to remove the snapcap, I am cocking the hammer or the striker. So it would seem that my choice is either I leave the last snap cap in the chamber or I have to leave the hammer cocked. The other choice is to not leave the hammer cocked and to dry fire the pistol after I remove the snap cap; ouch!

None of these choices seems to be a good option to ensure I am optimally caring for my new to me 1939 Luger. Please advise this noob as to how to remove the chambered snap cap and not **** the Luger, or otherwise deal with this apparent dilemma.

I am ready to be schooled. I thank you and my Luger thanks you.

As a general rule, repeatedly dry firing a firearm is not good for it
However one occasional dry fire will not harm a firearm in otherwise good condition

I would not worry about the occasional dry firing. The luger striker is quite sturdy.

You can "de-****" by pulling the toggle back just enough to disengage the sear from the striker, pull the trigger and let it go forward.

Eugene,
Decocking the Luger is incredibly easy. As you remove the snap cap, lower the toggle slowly by hand (do not just let it snap back into battery). This way the sear does not engage the striker and the gun will not be cocked. As I am sure you are aware, this procedure should be performed with an empty magazine or with the magazine out of the gun. Sorry to state the obvious but it never hurts to emphasize safety.
Ron

Decocking a Luger as I was taught:

After making darn sure the gun is unloaded, nothing in the chamber and mag removed...

Lift up on the toggle to the point where resistance suddenly increases (don't now how to explain it better than that) - point the gun in a safe direction, while still holding the toggle with one hand, pull the trigger and let the toggle down gently. Don't let it snap down.

Maybe someone else can explain it better than I can...

ETA: Ron did so while I was writing this...

Yessss! I just followed your collective advice and it worked like a charm. I was able to remove the snap cap and ensure the pistol was decocked.

I am learning and enjoying the journey. Thanks folks!
:bowdown:

And, you would have found the answer in the new formatted FAQs too!

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=35479

Problem is the FAQ is not a page that can be read
It is a PDF so not all of us can see it,

Mreick, thank you. I did read the FAQs, but only found two references about not dry firing. I must have missed that.

Both dry firing and decocking a Luger are discussed on page 36 of the new FAQs.

Access to attachments is one of the benefits of registering with the site. The PDF reader is free software. Is there something else that would prevent downloading a PDF or image file?

I'll rephrase for an attempt at more clarity. :rolleyes:

Pull back on the toggle knobs and find the spot where the resistance increases noticeably. This will happen when the breech is open about 3/8". Now, pull into the resistance just a bit, to begin to take up a little of the strain. This is the point at which you'd pull and hold the trigger while lowering the toggle knobs. If you simply pull back to the "wall" without taking a little strain, you can feel the sear's disengaging the firing pin as you pull the trigger. I don't like how this feels, and prefer the "strain relief method", in which the parts are free of each other when they move apart.

It all has to do with the disconnector, which is the little sprung plunger on the front end of the sear bar. When the upper moves back during a cycle, the disconnector moves back and out from under the trigger lever on the side plate. When the upper returns to battery, and if the trigger is still being held, the tip of the plunger encounters the side of the trigger lever instead of tucking under it. The spring action accommodates this mechanical meet-up and the plunger is pressed into the end of the sear bar. When the trigger is released, this allows the plunger to pop back out, placing it once again under the trigger lever.

So, while de-cocking, if the upper moves back much farther, the trigger system will be disconnected, and the sear bar will not be affected by pulling the trigger. If the sear does not escape the lug on the firing pin when the trigger is pulled and the action returned, the pistol will c0ck or remain cocked. Also, the pistol will c0ck if the action is pulled back much more than the 3/8" where the resistance is encountered (about a half inch would do it.). Try it, and you will hear the click as the sear catches the firing pin's lug.

I can't understand why one should dry fire a Luger, when is well known as a general rule that repeatedly dry firing a pistol is not good for it, GLOCKs included.
I recommend the use of good snap caps with any gun!
My two bob.

Cheers.

Eugen is using snap caps. He meant after removing the cap to store the pistol and not leave it c.o.c.k.e.d.

In any case, it's easier just to leave a snap cap in it.

Yes, upon eventual removal of the snap cap I would rather not leave the Lugar co.cked.
But, Sergio, while I considered that option, I was concerned that a snap cap parked in the chamber might over stress the extractor spring and generally be an unwise choice for storage. That is why I am inquiring.

Your choice to remove the snap cap and not leave the striker and extractor springs under tension is a good idea...go with it! :)