First proper Luger
 

Picked this up not too long ago. All matching, 1914 production - according to the serial number, yes? Only bad part is the stock lug was ground off. I haven't checked the grips, are commercial Luger's grips marked?

Thing feels unbelievably nice. I had a horribly mismatched Luger made up of a mish-mash of parts and it couldn't make it through a magazine without choking.

http://i.imgur.com/P85AE9Il.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zSqF1k8l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Wjxg7Xdl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9tNz8Fql.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QZIY8qwl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/r2MKzrGl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kYBgMnwl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Z0zrAMEl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fL0K9FCl.jpg

I paid $900 - did I do okay or did I goof?

You are in the slightly high ballpark for a refinished, commercial Luger. If she runs well, the market value will soon catch up and surpass what you paid.

How about a photo of the butt where the stock lug was "ground off"?

How does it shoot??

I do not think you did so bad on cost. Geo is on to something.

30 caliber or 9mm?

Gotcha, thanks for the information. If it shoots well I'm sure I'll keep it for as long as I'm alive so in some ways acquisition cost is irrelevant but at the same time one always likes to think one got a good deal.

What's the give away for the refinishing job?

I don't have florescent lights in my garage so the incandescent light might make this look a little odd. It's well past sundown here. I've seen this "type" of delug-ification before on other Lugers. Not sure if it's a common manner, shame it happened in the first place:

http://i.imgur.com/7Wja3LWl.jpg

I'll do that tomorrow! I'll try to get some video too.

9mm!

The big one is that the small parts are blued when on this vintage they should be strawed. In fact, it would really perk up the pistol's looks to refresh them yourself--it's one of the easiest rehabs to do on a Luger. Look for the sticky or FAQ with details of this simple procedure.

Other clues include the blued end of the retaining pin for the toggle's knee joint--visible atop the left toggle knob. The joint was assembled after the parts were rust blued and should remain "in the white". Many refinishers don't take the time/trouble to disassemble the joint for refinishing and just blue the entire assembly. It would seem that some use the time saved to buff the rest of they gun even more severely!:D

Fortunately yours was not buffed heavily, if at all, and retains fairly crisp edges, corners, and markings. Due to the refinishing and lug removal, it is a shooter; nonetheless, you might want to conserve the original numbered parts that commonly break during use by swapping them out for repro stand-ins when shooting it.

Enjoy!

I think you didn't pay much at all, it has been messed about a bit undoubtedly, but it is a nice LUGER.

Best regards.

Finally got around to uploading a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAiGpEz23hw

Is there a way to embed videos on this forum?

100+ rounds down the pipe and not one failure. That makes me a happy camper. One of those hits is on a target about 80-90 yards away... must be the gun, not me!

Wow! Thanks for all the information! What sub-forum is the FAQ/sticky on refreshing those parts located?

I had a good laugh at the bolded text!

Thanks! Super happy with it now having taken it out shooting.

On another note to everyone reading:

Should I be using oil on the rails or grease?

What velocity ammo should I be using? I've got a LOT of Perfecta 9mm which seems to me as being pretty light loading. Is the Luger toggle action strong or weak? I read conflicting "facts" on the toggle being either super strong or delicate. This leaves me confused!

Thanks a lot to everyone, very happy with this Luger... who knows, maybe I'll try to add more in the future!

:cheers:

Some of your answers:

Use oil not grease.
Use std ammo, about 1100 to 1130 fps, No Nato ammo, it is too hot, no +P ammo.

The action is strong enough for the rounds it was designed for; but the action is "delicate" in the sense that it is balanced for the ammo weight and velocity vs. the mainspring and weight of the recoiling parts. One must stay within design parameters.

Everyone is dancing a little about the price you paid, IMO it was significantly high, due to the butchering of the frame where the lug was removed. But it does sound like you got a great shooter, and if that is what you want- don't worry, be happy.

I agree I would use oil instead and not grease.

I use a tiny dab of grease (TETRA) on 1911s rails and outside barrel, but I would use some BALLISTOL on a LUGER.

Best.

Looks like you got a great shooter!! 100 rounds with no jams is very good. I would stay with std. velocity ammo, and it appears that your Luger loves the Perfecta ammo.....match made in Heaven!!

I live in a warm climate, and use TW25b grease on all of my autos on the slide/frame interface. I use oil on the less friction areas. Just keep it clean, and lubed, and you should be just fine.

To me, if I purchase a 100% reliable Luger, then I feel my money was well spent. There are a LOT of Lugers for sale that require some/lot of "tuning" to get them working properly. Sometimes even having to purchase extractors, springs, breachblocks, etc. and that can get expensive and frustrating. You did just fine, in my way of thinking.....enjoy!!

rhuff:
You are the first person on forums to report using TW25b grease. I have used it on some of my Lugers - on the inner parts, only. I was leery of the results on the long haul; especially on the petina, etc.
How long have you been using it?
Please tell us some of how you have used it. Any long-term disappointments?
Thanks
Jack

Jack,

I have been using Mil Comm TW25b for the last 7-8 years, at least.....perhaps longer. As most shooters/collectors have done, I have tried a "ton" of different lubes, greases, whatever. I believe that there are some very good products out there for sale....not just one best!! TW25b is not the cheapest lube by far, but my handguns are not cheap either.

I have stayed with TW25b for many reasons, and quite honestly, have found no down side. It requires a very thin application to get the job done, and has an enormous temperature functioning range. For years and years, I would shoot a firearm, then clean said firearm.....no variations. For the last 1-2 years, I shoot a firearm(handgun) and do not field strip it and clean it until a fair amount of ammo has passed through it. I clean the breachface, feedramp, and boresnake the bore, but do not remove any/all of the lube and replace it. It just isn't necessary, in my way of thinking. I have experienced zero lube/lack of lube problems to date.

I am a shooter and shoot 1-2/week, usually 75-100 rounds/visit. This is a personal study that I am doing with this lube and my handguns. So far, I could not be more pleased/satisfied.

I've just seen that BROWNELLS has got it for sale, but I've never tried it.