Grip rejuvination
 

I don't know if anyone else would care for this grip appearance but here's what I did to an old, dark grimy pair of grips.
After soaking in aircraft stripper I scrubbed them with a toothbrush then washed them with warm water & soap. The water will cause them to swell so they must be air-dried for 3-4 days or until they fit.
I coated them on both sides w/Smiths Clear Penetrating Epoxy(CPES), which is almost as thin as water, therefore soaking into the wood. I applied 2 coats on the back & 4 on the front. This will dimensionally stabilize them & they can no longer retain dirt, grease or body oil.
Roger

The first pic is of my Krieghoff grips which I didn't want to leave on this gun

Looks like the backside of a pair of brown Bakelite grips... :confused:

That's because it is the backside of a pair of brown Bakelite grips from a Krieghoff. :rolleyes:

Always. Interesting to hear what folks try on grips.

There are several other heads on this same subject, if. You want some other opinions or thoughts.

What is "aircraft stripper"?

i was with you up to the epoxy (which is something that was not available when Lugers were made).

I have used hand rubbed dilute boiled linseed oil as a final finish. You take BLO and dilute it one part mineral spirits to two parts BLO, and then apply it with a cotton ball. It has to be rubbed into the surface by hand since the heat of the friction is what helps melt it into the wood's pores. Multiple coats are needed, with a light burnishing with 0000 steel wool in between.

Marc

Laquer Thinner should be enough.
It will evaporate without any water rinse needed.

Soaking in water isn't a good idea, unless it's teak.

Hope you didn't get into the MEK or something more toxic!
Even with gloves, its nasty stuff. (I used to repaint commercial planes)

In the past I did several experiments, now I only use an old dry nylon toothbrush, after all stocks should match the general condition of the pistol.

Aircraft stripper is a thick, ammonia-based chemical used to remove paint or varnish, available at any hardware or automotive paint store. The stripper is caustic so must be neutralized afterward w/soap & water, which will not hurt the wood at all, other than the aforementioned swelling.

I have been using this stripper for many years, and it does a very nice job on paint, as well as wood finishes that one wishes to remove. It is a caustic rascal, and gloves are a must!!

I leave the aircraft stripper for the really tough jobs
and have had good results with citrusstrip,
much more pleasant to work with

Fascinating thread on grip refinishing. I would have thought most commercial stripers would be too strong for these delicate wooden grips. Being new here I have so much to learn. Fortunately my grips are in pretty decent condition. I think I will let them alone.

Citristrip is my favorite, it smells good, doesn't burn your skin and it will strip just about everything. I used to use the caustic strippers, but they are very nasty to work with and don't really work any better than Citristrip.

A few drops of Japan Dryer helps the drying process of the BLO and thinner.
dju

I just learned two things. I am grateful.
Jack