GESICHERT repaint
 

Does anyone know a good method to reapply paint in the GESICHERT stamping on the frame?

I have the recommended Ivory paint.
Use a toothpick? Just wipe it on?

Thanks
- Geo

If this is a collectible pistol, I wouldn't add or detract from its current appearance with new paint. If it is a shooter, then just make sure the stamp is relatively clear of old paint and debris, then apply the new paint with a small brush or Q-tip. wait a few minutes and then wipe the area carefully with a lint free cloth and the paint will remain in the stamp. For a temporary and removable fill, just use a white grease pencil. You can usually scrub out the old fill in the stamp with gun solvent and a old toothbrush.

I did this years ago, and used an off ivory color, so it looked old and not brand new. I tried both ways, using a toothpick seemed easiest, or a very fine paintbrush.

Ed

I did this with Testors "Light Ivory" on my Navy build, and it was frustrating to say the least. Lacquer-Stik is probably a better option.

paint in the print!
 

Hi to all! You need to use an enamel (for plastic) model paint available at any hobby store.... You can blend color to taste, fill in the print, let it set a bit, and lightly clean up, wipe away residual, with acetone... If you screw up, soak with acetone, whip away, and try again.... Now, here is the trick!!!!! Let it set for about 6 months! it will age harden, and is almost impervious to any solvent, as in, you almost can't remove it without heat or some other extreme solvents.... That's it... go get'em!! Best to all, til....lat'r.....GT........:thumbup:

Thanks for the great suggestions!
It's good to know that if I don't like how it turns out I can just remove it with acetone and I'm no worse off than before.

- Geo

I repainted one for the heck of it. A couple points;


-fill the well cleaned letters using a tooth pick, be sure to get in all the letter
-clean up "around" the letters with a q-tip before the pain dries- so there is less to clean up later
-a well worn scotch brite-not a new one- for the first paint removal works well-I used one wet with gun oil for initial removal
-then use a q-tip, just damp with solvent.
-If there is a part of a letter left out, you don't have go go all the way back - just add a little paint to the area missing the paint

Hope this helps.

I mix my own TESTORS Enamel to mimic the off white ivory MAUSER paint color or the "baby poop" yellow/tan DWM/Erfurt color. Clean the marking with alcohol or acetone and dry. Put the paint in place daubbing it on the marking with a blunted tooth pick marking sure to break up any air bubbles. Lay the frame down level so the wet paint is equal thickness on the marking as it drys. In about 4 hours, run an alcohol soaked patch across the dried painted marking to remove the excess. This takes multiple passes to take the dried paint off the marking on the surface leaving the dried paint that is down in the markings. If the paint is really really really dry (like overnight or a week) if is going to be difficult to remove the excess. A qutip or patch with a LIGHT application of acetone will melt the surface paint quickly. All you are doing is softening the surface. If you use TOO much acetone you will pull some of the paint from the interior letters or numbers (not desirable) The 3-4 hour drying (depending on air humidity) and the alcohol patch is much more forgiving and gives GREAT resulst. I repaint EVERY safety marking (assuming GESICHERT or SAFE) on frames I restore.