Cleaning grips?
 

Ok, in my first post I showed my newly acquired 1911 DWM. Now need some advice on whether or not to clean the grips. I don't want to mess them up. They are numbered to the gun, and do not appear oil soaked. The inside looks near new. But the outside is dark and may have some accumulated dirt and scum in the checkering. First, should I clean them, and if so how? I have seen two methods. One uses Murphys Oil soap, and the other Ballistol. Also, if cleaned, should I use boiled linseed afterwards, or something else. I appreciate any advice.

Get ready for a dazzling array of answers here, from "clean, refinish and rechecker", to "do nothing, I like original dirt".
As I stated before, I like a soft toothbrush and a bit of mineral spirits, just to very lightly clean them, but not alter them.
But again this is a personal choice with no "right" answer.
dju

If the gun has a high value (which it may), then I would advise you to do nothing, or at least practice on a set of grips you can afford to learn on. Remember, if you harm them you can't go back, but if you do nothing they could always be worked on later, no foul.

there was a good thread recently about the shape changes in fit that might occur....don't remember where that was located on the board............

No. Currently, the gun balances well. The grip panels is dark and worn, but it matches the gun's overall condition, so it looks good. Really no need to refresh grip panels, the gun will go out of balance that way.

use a clean nylon tooth brush to just clean up some of the dirts and lints in the dicingx. that is all i do.

Steven

I could suggest what I did once, in fact I've come to the conclusion that everyone here seems to have his own way of cleaning old and dirty wooden grips, but just for a start why don't you read the FAQ on this site where you can find quite and interesting answer.

Sergio

Leave them alone or at most use a very light dose of Murphy's oil soap and scrub lightly with a tooth brush with minimal warm water bath then lay them flat on a triple layer of paper towels with a book placed on top of them for forty-eight hours to dry. Put nothing on them.

This is what I ran into not to long ago
Here is the link.
http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=33595
Mike Z.

Thanks. I think I may just lightly brush them and leave them alone.

Good, very wise of you!

:thumbup:

Sergio

Not a bad choice. I had bad experience once and some good ones too. But I'll think twice next time.
Mike Z.

Nyghtfall,

It is my understanding that all wood needs some kind of finish on it to protect and control moisture absorption.
If you do wash them you should re-oil the grips with boiled linseed oil or tung oil. Just put it on and then wipe the excess off. If you don't, they will expand and contract due to changing moisture in the air, and may eventually crack or split.

I would be careful with the Murphys - too much water is bad for wood, as it can swell and with repeated washings even split.

- Geo

Just as a hint, in the past I used a bit, I repeat only "a bit" of BALLISTOL Oil.
It's not too thick and a few drops of it have always been useful also on wooden grips.

Sergio

I recently cleaned several sets of Luger grips. I extensively researched the matter; it's a jungle out there of varied and often conflicting advice. I also have some woodworking background and felt like I was able to discover and vet a reasonable solution.

I purchased a fine artist's brush at an art supply house - finer and softer than the oft-recommended toothbrush. I then gently brushed the grips, generously using Acetone (and wearing a respirator). I inspected the grips before and after using a 40x Leica stereo microscope to verify some good was being done and no damage was being done. It worked, and the grips are a bit lighter and much cleaner.

IMO a toothbrush is too course. Murphy's Oil Soap is an old product with too much water. The acetone cuts most accumulated foreign matter, evaporates very fast, is not absorbed and does no harm to the wood.

I'm not a chemist, but from what I know of wood, putting an oily material intended to soak into the grips (linseed oil, Ballistol or anything similar) is a mistake. I cannot see how any such product helps preserve the wood, I would expect such products would soften, color or both.

I have heard there may be a historical argument that Luger grips were originally treated with Linseed oil. I don't know if that is true or not, but I am skeptical that any +70 year old hardwood benefits by coming into contact with an oil-type material. Personally I would need to see an authoritative source, that discusses the impact on the wood's cell structure, before I would "oil" any old wood.

I agree that acetone is an excellent cleaner with all the attributes shown, however along with cleaning any gunk and dirt, it will also disolve any oils in the wood, whether accidental or intended. So be sure to watch for signs of dry-ness in the grips post-acetone.
dju

Yes acetone does dissolve and dry any oils. I was watching for excessive dryness after the procedure. Microscope showed I removed a lot but not all of the wood's surface loose material, which I would guess (but cannot prove) was mainy oils from handling, past oil treatments or similar that had combined with dirt and microscopic wood fragments from handing abrasion.

The removal of surface coloration and debris is progressive vertically BTW. By that I mean the checkering grooves retain more dampish old material down in the "valleys" between the checkering points. I would guess, but cannot prove, that the remaining small quantity of damp material at the checkering groove bases wicks into the wood enough to prevent excessive overall dryness. In any event, after observing the checkering afterward IMO the wood is not excessively dry after the treatment described.

toothbrushes for babys is what i use

I also take bamboo chop sticks, and cut the ends to a point or bevel to use them as "pushers" and ""scrapers"... They are hard, but softer than most plastic and metal.

Marc