Another what is my Luger worth thread...
 

Got an Uncle who showed up at a party and said Hey I got one of those Lugers What are they worth.

Well doing some looking and they are all over the place.

I found somewhere on here a checklist of what to look for.

Will go through this best i can. I don't have it with me but I can over my notes on the sheet.

Dated 1940

1 Toggle is marked 42
2 chamber 6235 Serial???
3 Toggle knob Squared/ knurled
4 No grip safety
5 Does have a stock lug
6 9mm??? No markings but was told it was.
7 wood checked grip, no border, Walnut??
8 Safety, safe in rear position marked Gesichert
9Markings.... Eagle on R front of barrel.
Right front of chamber 3 symbols. under first 656, second 655 no number under 3rd (German eagle) all 3 symbols look like circle with different wings.
10 barrel 4 3/4"
11 Markings on extractor???
12 front site has horizontal lines that face rearward.
13 Magazine, Alum bottom. not original, numbers don't match.

Bluing 85%??
No straw color. Previous models from what I read.
Bore good.
grips good... one side has been carved or worn at bottom. 80%
Matching number except for mag.
Has holster and tool. Number on holster does not match gun.
Number all seem to match except magazine.
It does have a lanyard loop above grip.
Under barrel it has small numbers looks like 882.

Thanks for any info. Guys on Subguns pointed me to your site...

welcome to the forum; here let me help;

Dated 1940 - year made

1 Toggle is marked 42 - code name for Mauser
2 chamber 6235 Serial??? SERIAL NUMBER - LETTER UNDER IT?
6 9mm??? No markings but was told it was. SEE BELOW 8,82 MEANS 9MM
7 wood checked grip, no border, Walnut?? NORMAL
8 Safety, safe in rear position marked Gesichert NORMAL
9Markings.... Eagle on R front of barrel. PROOF MARKING
Right front of chamber 3 symbols. under first 656, second 655 no number under 3rd (German eagle) all 3 symbols look like circle with different wings. SHOULD BE EAGLE 655 FOR ALL
10 barrel 4 3/4" SHOULD BE 4 INCH BARREL...
11 Markings on extractor???
12 front site has horizontal lines that face rearward.
13 Magazine, Alum bottom. not original, numbers don't match. COMMON

Bluing 85%??
No straw color. Previous models from what I read. NORMAL
Bore good.
grips good... one side has been carved or worn at bottom. 80%
Matching number except for mag. INTERIOR AND TOGGLE PIN TOO?
Has holster and tool. Number on holster does not match gun.
Under barrel it has small numbers looks like 882.

PICTURES OF FULL LEFT, FULL RIGHT AND HOLSTER FRONT AND REAR

From what I remember no letter under the serial number.

Barrel was probably 4" I measured to back of chamber.

Everything I found had matching numbers except the mag. Everything I could see without taking the gun apart. I know the toggle did, I know nothing about a Luger. Toss me an Uzi and we can talk... LOL

I knew someone would ask for pictures. Will have to take some when I get the chance.

Thanks for the help.

Might be a few days before I can get and post some pictures...

thats okay, but if mismatched inside, its mismatched

Hold open has to be numbered - toggle pin (rear), firing pin, grips probably ---- without pictures, it is likely your 85% of bluing might be 95% or %75 to me :cool:

Is there a way to see the matching parts on the inside without taking it apart??? Through bolt???

I am going through his word it all matched... Then I seen the mag did not match... He said oh you can get those anywhere... Ah yea.

I tried to be conservation on the bluing guess... It was worn on the front of the barrel from the holster. Not really bad anywhere else, but I understand it is a judgement call.

Bummer is he had a chance to pick up a chrome plated one at the same time. (many many moons ago) I am thinking that one would be special. Are there many chrome ones??? I haven't even heard that mentioned.

After the war, many folks chromed them - totally ruins the collector value

not just percent bluing but why we ask pictures. I have had someone tell me it was a Luger and the pictures showed a P38 and another time a Radom and other times nickled or chromed....

you 'might' be able to see the numbers, taking apart is easy, getting back together is harder.... Put luger assembly into youtube and or look here at the technical area ...

Well not sure about internal numbers. Was told they matched but you know how that is. Nice to know that chrome is generally not a good thing... Well how about a couple pictures. I had some one else take them with their phone. So will do what we can do.

Well looks like the forum does not take pics... So will try uploading and linking them.........

http://i60.tinypic.com/1ob0ch.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/292mb77.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/e0nxb5.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/33z3a15.jpg

Well lets see how that turns out...

Well pics didn't show up too bad. Hard to see in the first picture, the bottom right of the grip is either very worn or carved down. Unless it is supposed to be that way.

Let me know if you have any more questions... Maybe a price either way about having matching numbers or not.

Thanks, again.

Assuming that it is all matching and not particularly rare or scarce, I'll point you to 2 similar guns with holsters in the for sale column below, a 1939 and a BYF 42 as I recall, that are in the $1800 range.
So far yours looks fine, but not particularly rare or valuable.
So I'm guessing $1800'ish with the holster, and maybe $1200'ish if there are non-matching parts.
Or you could chrome plate it and MAYBE get $1000...
dju

Does it make a difference if the magazine is a non matching number???

Yes it does make a difference. Most Lugers have a non matching magazine. Those that match are a bonus worth several hundred dollars extra. Find one with both original matching magazines and you are looking at and extra grand or more. IMHO, of course.
But of course to sell a Luger with matching mag. or mags. for more money, then you are cutting your potential market size down to more serious collectors, who are both more demanding and frugal.
One thing that troubles me in the photos is that the side plate looks to be the old rust blue finish, not the later salt blue. Probably just the lighting. Are there numbers on the inside of the plate?
dju

There may be. I don't have the gun in my possession. I had some one take pics with their phone. I did look on You tube about how to dissemble one. Sounds like it is to rich for me to get it from him, family, but I could sell it for him. Trying to get a good idea what it is worth and then let him know. From there tear it down and check numbers, to make sure they all match.

Would love to pick up a Luger, pretty neat guns with a nice history, but I am more of a shooter than collector. I would hate to have something break and damage its value.

Thanks for your time.

Finish does not look too bad - maybe 90% (but you only show two sides).

Markings on extractor??? - There should be last 2 digits of SN on the extractor.

Left grip looks like it was ground off at an angle near the bottom - not normal wear.

You have a good eye for detail - you spelled 'Gesichert' (SAFE) correctly - you would not believe how many people cannot copy that word without mangling it!

I talked to him about it and sounds like he will hold on to it for now. I told him the best thing would be for me to take the pistol apart and check all the numbers.

The left grip... I have heard it is common to get a chip in that area... I wonder if it is that.

The most common chip, called the "Million Dollar Chip", occurs in the small peninsula of wood that tucks up behind the bottom exposed end of the safety lever--where it pivots. Hurried or careless removal of this grip will snap that little piece off just about every time. One must first raise the grip only enough to clear the grip frame at the bottom, then rotate it slightly clockwise as it is pulled away from the frame. The bottoms of both grips take a beating during use, and it is not uncommon to observe chips, lots of wear, or other damage there as well--but it can be left and/or right,and front and/or back. The million dollar jobbie only occurs in one place, as described.

I think what you are seeing is camera flare with regard to the left grip. I see no chip, cut or damage whatsoever.

Looks like the upper end of left panel is good, but the lower end has a chip (?).

If want to sell, may consider conassign it to a C&R dealer, saves you effort.

Or if you want to sell simply list it below in the For Sale column. It seems like most reasonably priced guns eventually go away when listed there.
dju

WTS has certain advantage, but it's not for quick money. It could stay there for months.

There is a dealer "JackTheDog" on AuctionArms.com, his items sell. No magic, items starts at $0.01, no reserve, it's genuine auction, and let market decide the value, final result is usually very good. But he has setup a "brand name" and has good amount followers on the market, occasional sellers should not try that himself. If conassign to him, at least you save picturing and texting effort, could sit back having fun watching people bidding on it. Just an option.