DWM Luger
 

I traded one of my Garands last night for a DWM luger that the guy was asking 1400 for. I dont think it was worth that but I had about 800 In the garand. I got the Luger, the "original" magazine (thats what he said at least) and one other with a black bottom. Also a holster with a broken strap. There is some wear, but only where it came in contact with the holster and the grips arent sharp but after 96 years, I wouldn't expect them to be. Its in 30 Cal. I also got 240$ with the pistol.
So was it a good deal, and the big question, should I just go ahead and restore it and make it slightly more beautiful and sharp.
(Germany stamped on left) All # match.
The bore is lightly pitted which is expected due to the mercuric primers.
Will try to post detailed pictures later.

Thanks guys

Welcome aboard!

You bought a commertial Luger which may have been made in the 1920s. Does the serial number have a letter sufix? The "Germany" stamp was applied when it was imported into the
US. $1,400 is on the high side for a pistol of this type, unless it has an unusual history, features or markings.

With what you have in the Garand, plus the money back you did quite well. I would not spend any time or money restoring this pistol. A reblue is a reblue forever and if the original finish is mostly there, I would leave it alone.

We look forward to seeing photos of your new Luger!

Please post photos. Regarding the grips, we have forum members who can freshen them up and not hurt the value. On the other hand, re-bluing is rarely a good move.
dju

I look forward to seeing your new acquisition. The commercial Lugers in 30Luger caliber do not bring the $ that wartime Lugers bring. If you plan to keep this luger and use it as a shooter, then "maybe" a reblue is in order. If your luger retains the majority of it's original bluing, then definitely not.

Welcome to the forum.

Pictures would be great, especially full left, full right, full top and any exterior profs and acceptance markings.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. The general advice about leaving it as is makes sense. There is some collectible interest if it's in original finish, but that is lost after re-bluing.

.30 Luger is less of interest as a shooter because of the higher cost of ammunition. That said, it's a great round.

Military Lugers have much more collector interest. That is why they are more valuable.

If you got this for the equivalent of $560, you bought it about $200 below market. The other way of looking at it is that your Garand cost the buyer about $1040.

Now that we know it was refinished, drop it's value back to $450 to $550.

Marc

Awful lot of presumption about value without even knowing the serial number...

--Dwight

Let me see if I can get some pictures to cooperate.

There we are guys, please let me know what you guys think Ive got and what I should do with it. I bought it to keep it in the safe if it needs to stay there or to shoot it every now and then of not (if I need to shoot it then I might just have to buy one I don't want to shoot :))

I can not see a suffix under the barrel, but expect there is a letter, as the serial number is too low to be a 1900.

I do not see a date, but the old school guys called these a 1920 commercial. Depending on the suffix, made 1925-1929 by DWM. It has crown n acceptance and the export germany stamp, all common. Are you sure it's 30 luger? I assume it is, but find a pencil, 30 Luger will be tighter a 9 mm would just let the pencil drop in, it is obvious.

I am pretty sure the frame has been reblued, too rounded from the front and deep dark bluing, but could be the light. If so, you might have over paid a bit. However, more pictures of the holster? It might be worth $40 or it might be worth $250... Any tool inside?

The extra mag is a Mecgar or triple k, good for shooting and worth around $25-$40

It has been refinished; the front of the frame is clearly rounded and the trigger, safety lever, and takedown are all blued. It also appears to have some pits (or dust?) on the toggle train. I notice the toggle axis retaining pin is missing too. GT (member here) can hook you up with a replacement for that.

How much am I looking at for that pin? and can I shoot it without

IIRC they were 5 for $10. See: http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=31703
Your best bet is to PM him through the forum

I'd wait until the pin was replaced. Otherwise, a world of hurt could ensue if the toggle axle came out during firing. Consider using the trimmed off shank of a number series drill bit, if one fits the hole with a reasonable tap-fit.