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-   -   Luger not shot in 25 years...is it safe? (https://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=32922)

sfirzli 07-15-2014 08:20 AM

Luger not shot in 25 years...is it safe?
 
Hi all,

I have a 1918 DWM (German) that has not been touched or fired in 25 years. It looks fine, I have cleaned it and oiled it where I can.

Any tips or things to consider before going to the range and firing? Or is there any part of the gun which usually needs special lubing?

Thanks

Firz

Edward Tinker 07-15-2014 09:15 AM

well, whether 4 yrs, 25 yrs or 80 years, same issues could be wrong. could be weak already - you never know

is it s collectable piece that you will regret shooting and when you crack the grips you'll say, there goes $200

history of it?

if its a so-so piece and you want to shoot some rounds - NO +P - easy full metal jacket - think about visiting a gunsmith - they can look it over for you - clean it up and leave some oil on the toggle, etc and then take it to the range

welcome to the forum :)

sheepherder 07-15-2014 09:28 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Edward Tinker (Post 257399)
is it s collectable piece that you will regret shooting and when you crack the grips you'll say, there goes $200

Post pics of all the markings, plus any scratches, gouges, worn finish spots, full R&L views, anything else you see that looks old...the experts here [like Ed] can give you an idea how much $$$ you'll lose when a piece breaks (even if you replace it). :)

Quote:

history of it?

if its a so-so piece and you want to shoot some rounds - NO +P
Ed is spot-on with the ammunition recommendation. No Police rounds, no NATO surplus rounds, no any-nation surplus, no Tula or Wolf. Wal-Mart Winchester white box 115gr FMJ Target ammunition is the best recommendation for an old Luger. :thumbup:

I happen to have a pic here of a Luger firing +P ammunition...As you can see, the recoil lifted the gun up quite a bit...Lots of unburned powder spilling out the barrel...It definitely puts a lot of undue strain on the mechanical parts... :rolleyes:

ithacaartist 07-15-2014 10:45 AM

Amazing pic, Rich. Looks as if the shot was fired while in mid-air! The first time I've seen a moto-X tank!

mrerick 07-15-2014 10:53 AM

Hi Firz, and welcome to the forum.

If your Luger has no corrosion or deterioration, and is all matching (meaning it was properly fitted at the factory), and the barrel is clear / bright / shiny and clean, it will probably function properly, except:

- Springs may have taken a set, and could be weak
- there could be internal broken parts - which is why it may not have been shot in all these years
- You could easily break a numbered part, even with the proper low velocity 9mm ammunition (mentioned above)

Many of us do not ever shoot collectible Lugers because of the very real potential for breaking a numbered part.

At minimum, you should have a gunsmith with a Luger background (and they are not common to find - even though many will tell you they know what they are doing) look it over thoroughly.

Marc

sheepherder 07-15-2014 11:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ithacaartist (Post 257410)
Amazing pic, Rich. Looks as if the shot was fired while in mid-air! The first time I've seen a moto-X tank!

The caption/label says it's a T-80...I'm no sardine can soldier, but I don't think that's a US tank... :rolleyes:

Gotta be a staged shot...Have you seen that pic of a F-14 breaking the sound barrier while flying on the deck??? :eek:

Sergio Natali 07-15-2014 12:22 PM

Chuck

Very simply, consider your gun NOT SAFE at all until you have it properly checked by a competent armourer.
In all cases all these old Lugers should never be fired wih modern high sped/high power ammunitions because with the time they might have become somehow structurally unsound.

IMHO

Sergio

DavidJayUden 07-15-2014 12:29 PM

F:
Snug up the grip screws, lube the toggle assembly and the tracks that it slides in, lightly clean but do not oil the barrel. Give it a good visual inspection. If the magazine has a wooden bottom, pick up an aftermarket such as a Mec-Gar.
Use a pistol rug case and leave old leather holsters at home.
Use great care and patience when removing the left grip panel so you don't chip off the upper rear corner.
Use the ammo. already recommended.
Dry fire it a couple of times to be sure it clicks as it should. Lightly clean the insides of the side-plate, trigger/firing striker/etc. if it feels or sounds gummy.
Load and fire just one shot at a time for a few rounds. Inspect the gun after each shot, examining the brass for bulging or signs of pressure, and check the holes for signs of keyholing.
Just use good common sense and let us know how it goes. Unless it breaks, then I'd not mention that...
dju

Curss 07-15-2014 01:50 PM

If you have them, use snap caps when you dry fire the gun. I believe the firing pins are often numbered to the guns.

GySgt1811 07-15-2014 03:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheepherder (Post 257412)
The caption/label says it's a T-80...I'm no sardine can soldier, but I don't think that's a US tank... :rolleyes:

Gotta be a staged shot...Have you seen that pic of a F-14 breaking the sound barrier while flying on the deck??? :eek:

Rich,

You're correct. It's Russian. MBT-80. While that particular shot may be staged (Probably not, actually) I've seen it done with the current US MBT. Although hitting anything meaningful is someone's bad luck.

"Sardine Can" Marine,

Gunny John

Lugerdoc 07-15-2014 04:06 PM

I agree with most of the above comments, but would stress checking the condition (power) of the recoil spring and carefully check the receiver and toggle assy for cracks before firing. TH

lugerholsterrepair 07-15-2014 05:04 PM

I use a very good 6 inch magnafier with a 75 Watt bulb in it. carefully check the receiver and toggle assy for cracks before firing. TH I would look at every part. Inspect the gun after each shot, examining the brass for bulging or signs of pressure, and check the holes for signs of keyholing. as David says. You could easily break a numbered part, even with the proper low velocity 9mm ammunition (mentioned above) Eric..Yup! That has been the fate of many an all matching Luger.

cirelaw 07-15-2014 07:42 PM

What part is most vulnerable for failure or damage? Eric

Sonofeugene 07-15-2014 08:13 PM

Springs will sometimes take a set when first used, however, after that they do not take a further set in normal use no matter how long they sit in a compressed state. Regardless of the number of years.

It's certainly advise able to have it checked out, but if it was safe to fire the last time, it'll be safe now as long as it's not seen corrosion during the intervening years. Of course, if it's a collector grade gun, you might want to think twice about firing it.

cirelaw 07-15-2014 10:08 PM

Perfection~

sfirzli 07-16-2014 04:50 AM

Thanks all. My other concern is safety (mine and others). Is it possible for apart to fly off or explode and hurt the shooter? Of course safety glasses will always be worn.

DavidJayUden 07-16-2014 07:34 AM

Well, I guess you are controlling an explosion with a bit of metal made about 100 years ago, so anything is possible.
However with the nod of approval from a competant gunsmith, the chances are remote. Statistically, it is much more likely that a part will break.
Maybe this is a good one to clean, lightly oil, and admire at home, and then take a newer gun to the shooting range?
dju

sheepherder 07-16-2014 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sfirzli (Post 257453)
Is it possible for a part to fly off...

I have read several anecdotal reports here of front sights flying off...And magazine bottoms [wood] breaking/blowing out and spewing springs, followers, and cartridges on the ground...One member had a toggle knob break off...

There was a call for reports of breakages...Here it is...

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=6491

Although the title says "Finished", members have continued reporting breakages after the failure report was compiled...

Lugerdoc 07-16-2014 10:03 AM

In working on lugers professionally for the last 40+ years, I've found the most common serious failure of a matching numbered part, is blowing out the back of the breach block so that the FP retainer will no longer lock-in. I believe that this is caused by a weak recoil spring and the BB bottoming out on the inside of the frame. TH

Sergio Natali 07-16-2014 12:44 PM

Chuck

quote
"...my other concern is safety (mine and others). Is it possible for apart to fly off or explode and hurt the shooter? Of course safety glasses will always be worn..." quote


For God's sake, follow my advice, forget any bubba's empirical suggestion, ask a really competent armourer. Full stop. A pair of glasses is NOT enouh for your safety.
Remember, always shoot safe, sometimes it's better not to risk and go to the range wih a modern gun.

My 2 cents

Sergio


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