Improvement function?
 

The 41 byf that I just purchased last Thursday shoots reasonably well looks good as a parts gun, and fits well with my other WWII piece (Garand). The main problem I have with it is that the take-down lever is far too tight. It is so tight that it gouges the trigger plate and requires a tool to pry it into the 6 o'clock position to field strip the pistol.

The question here is, should I work on the trigger plate in order to reduce the drag and be able to field strip the pistol by hand or leave it alone? I think the trigger plate would have to be worked by hand with a stone. The surface bluing is gone due to the gouging already taking place.

Thoughts?

Check to see that the little wire "L" spring that holds the takedown lever in place hasn't broken (they do quite often) and jammed the lever somehow...

If you get a chance, post some pictures of what you're dealing with...

you can also hone the back side of the take down lever instead of honing the side plate

You ARE pushing the upper receiver back on the frame before trying to move the lever??????

Sheepherder - Checked the spring as you suggested. It is intact and working fine. When the side plate is removed the take down lever operates smoothly and requires only finger pressure.

mrerick - pictures are not viable right now, maybe in a while.

Ben M. - Would there be an advantage of honing the backside of the take down lever over honing the side plate other than cosmetics?

nukem556 - Yes, and I am not offended by the question. There are many nuances to various mechanisms that are often overlooked, especially when dealing with a "new" contrivance. This, to me, is new, I have much to learn.

if the takedown lever and sideplate look mismatched number /different blue color/numbers are different fonts / obvious aged differently/etc - then it can occur that sideplate holddown tang or the takedown lever have been perhaps machined purposely/randomly to allow material fitment/relief to get close to the original tightness when assembled

some repro parts are castings and so have significant variance potential versus machined from stock

overall I like the honing idea and err on the side of too tight assembled when also using some lubrication on the mating parts

happy luger tuning !
Bill

Papa, Before modifing the part of the side plate, I'd check that the rear is completely flush into your frame. Quite often repro side plates need to have the rear projection thinned down to fit all the way into the frame. TH

cosmetic only

Lugerdoc - I followed your suggestion and checked the side plate fit at the rear. The fit appears to be as it should - no gaps anywhere, even all around. There is a narrow flange on the back of the side plate that fits under the frame. It is flush and even at this point as well. The side plate is one of only two pieces that does not have a number match to the frame. The other piece is the axle pin.

Is the sideplate's extention, ("ear") bent out in any way when looked at from above, (as if you were looking at it installed on the gun)?

If this is bent outwards to any degree, this might cause the take-down lever issue you are experiencing.

I will look at that point and let you know. I will be gone for several days and will not be able to get back to you before next week. Thanks for the additional tip.