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Help me out fellas
I've got a commercial Luger that just doesn't want to work right for me. She's a mix match shooter that I've been tracing down the same problem with. When you go to chamber a round the extractor doesn't grab it and actually pushes it so that the firing pin lightly strikes the primer. At first I thought extractor which I replaced and didn't fix it. Now I'm thinking it's the recoil spring which I have the replacement part coming to me in the mail. The only other thing I can think it to be is the barrel or actual recoil lever. Both seem fine but I'm wondering if the bullet can go deep into the chamber perhaps it's bad.... What do you guys think ????
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The 9mm Luger round headspaces on the cartridge case rim. Are you using the correct ammunition for your Luger?
What is the cartridge case length? If the chamber is undamaged, the ammunition should not push completely into the chamber. Marc |
Is your Luger a 9mm?
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I moved this to the repair section and also check-marked to notify you.
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What does your chamber/barrel look like? If the chamber ledge is eroded or somehow incorrect, then the loaded round can go past the ledge instead of headspacing onto it. Then the round is too deep into the barrel for the extractor to grab the cartridge rim, or for the firing pin to reach the primer for ignition.
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chamber reamer...
BTW, Doc, (rhuff) I now have a finish 9mm chamber reamer, and the gauges! Sooo, we're ready to take the plunge anytime you're ready! best to you, til...lat'r....GT:cheers:
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The extractor should ride up over the cartridge rim. If it's not riding up and over but acting as a ram and pushing the cartridge further into the chamber I would have to suspect the extractor spring.
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The Luger is a 9mm. Currently I'm using standard 9mm 115gr ammo. I've change both the extractor and spring for this pistol and it still pushes the round into the barrel to the point that the firing pin barely touches the primer. I have to pull back the toggle slightly and move the bullet under the extractor and rechamber it. At that point it will fire with the trigger pull and sometimes the next round will cycle into battery no problem.
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GT Good to know....I will contact you in a few days. Doc |
Here's a quick question. Should the recoil spring have enough tension to close the toggle when you slightly open it? I've seen on other pistols that then toggle will close by itself after you "break" the locked toggle action . Is this true because mine doesn't do this. If you let it go from fully open it will close by itself but if you slowly close it by hand it reaches a point where you don't feel any spring tension.
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Thats how I decock my luger when it hits that point where it stops I pull the trigger and its snaps shut.
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So a new barrel? Or is there really a difference in 9mm ammo case length between makers?
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reply
I replaced my recoil spring and it seems to act a lot better. I picked up some Winchester white box ammo and am going to see if that was my problem. I guess if it doesn't fix it then i'll need to replace the barrel. Should I go that route or should I try to get the top dollar for the one I have and buy an s/42
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Your profile doesn't specify where you live; some Euro countries prohibit pistols that shoot 'military' caliber ammunition. It is not uncommon for one of those pistols to be re-chambered for a 'different' 9mm cartridge, to allow it to be marketed without restriction. You may have one of those.
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Hope not but I'm located in the great stat of Texas in the good ole USA
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Quote:
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New shooter!
Hey Rich, post your new shooter... I really like it... GT
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Any idea on a good place to find the go no go gauges for a decent price
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If you can locate a box of PMC 115gr or 124gr FMJ cartridges, give them a try in your Luger. I have a barrel that was acting just like yours (due to a Bubba gunsmith) but it would function correctly with PMC ammo. PMC ammo uses a little thicker brass, and the case mouth is a little wider where it would headspace on the chamber ledge. PMC is not expensive ammo, and might well be worth a try. You will be able to tell without going to the range.
Remove the upper receiver from the frame, and remove the toggle train. Then hold the barrel muzzle down, and drop a round into the chamber. See how deep into the chamber it goes compared to the other ammo that you tried to shoot. IF, it sits higher in the chamber, that is a good sign. Then remove the firing pin, spring and spring retainer from the breachblock. After they are removed(very important to remove these pieces), reinstall you toggle train into your upper receiver. Open the toggle train and place a PMC cartridge into the chamber. Then slowly close the toggle train and see if the cartridge will headspace correctly, and allow the extractor to snap over the extraction ring if the case. If it does, then open the toggle train and your extractor should remove the cartridge from the chamber and allow the ejector to eject the round. Good luck. |
I did buy a box of Winchester white box ammo which I've heard is a good bullet to fire from this weapon. I believe the grain weight is about 115 but not too sure without grabbing the box and looking at it. I'll give pmc ammo a look if this Winchester white box stuff doesn't work but its going to be awhile until I can get some time to get to the range and actually test out all the repairs I have done to it thus far. I'd really like to get my hands on an s/42 with the waffen marks but I don't like the price tag. Anything over a grand for a pistol I think is just too much but I guess your paying for the history of it as well.
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