Inherited a 1910 Luger DWM, Trying to Learn More About It
 

Hi folks, I know next to nothing about guns to begin with, so please keep that in mind when reading my question! :)

My grandparents recently downsized and, in their old age, started giving away items. Included was a 1910 Luger which, from the markings, I can tell is manufactured by DWM. All the serial numbers seem to match as well. Hopefully the pictures are good enough to show this.

Here's the gun and clips from long range:

http://i.imgur.com/uVTJHNw.jpg

Manufacture marking:

http://i.imgur.com/rlXe7Ll.jpg

Date:

http://i.imgur.com/X4mfDsX.jpg

Serial Numbers:

http://i.imgur.com/2xLvUQU.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/fEXJdQy.jpg

Unfortunately, it seems like the toggle is stuck. Granted, I'm not too sure what I'm doing, but this is as far up as the toggle goes:

http://i.imgur.com/aSnx6QV.jpg

I'm wondering if you friendly folks could give me some info on my gun. Is it worth restoration? What's the approximate value?

I really appreciate your help. This is a really cool piece, but knowing next to nothing about it (and firearms in general) is pretty intimidating.

Thanks!

It is not worth restoration simply because it is worth more as an original, unmolested gun. It needs a serious cleaning and lube, but appears very nice. With the 2 mags. I'd ballpark it around $1200, but we could use more photos to guide us.
Anyway, it is well worth taking good care of.
dju

Welcome to the forum. A good cleaning with nothing abrasive would do wonders. I use gun oil and 0000 steel wool, and anything more abrasive could hurt it.

Posting pictures here is prefered.

I think you might have the safety on when pulling on the toggle?

Do a YouTube search on Luger take down. Also look around here for info, but ask questions here.

Thanks for the insight so far. What other pictures would be helpful?

Outdoors light, no flash, close ups of left, right, top, front and rear grip straps for starters. Also, use EXTREME caution in removing that left grip panel as they tend to chip away under the safety.
dju

Any markings on the grip strap?

Hi and Welcome to the forum!

I think you have a very nice Luger, most likely in original condition. It should be kept that way after cleaning it properly and then preserving it with appropriate lubrication and oiling.

You have to remove the magazine and take the safety off before racking the toggle. These earlier DWM Lugers have an unrelieved sear bar that is blocked by the safety lever.

Be very careful and ensure that it is not loaded as you handle and manipulate it. Always keep it pointed in a safe direction. Keep your finger off the trigger and away from the sear bar. Keep the Luger unloaded unless you're going to be immediately shooting it. A Luger is fully capable of being fired when the cannon/receiver is disassembled from the frame.

A fine early Luger like this should generally not be fired. That is because much of it's value is in it's matched, numbered, original parts. Break it and a good percentage of the value and some of it's history disappears.

Much of the surface rust can be removed by gently rubbing it with well oiled very fine steel wool or bronze wool. If you remove the grips, use great care when lifting them from the frame. It is easy to crack the left grip up near the safety lever.

Please let us know how we can be of help.

Marc

I think that Marc and Edward have already given you all the necessary info, what can I say, Just try to preserve what you have, its value in bucks is not the main thing, what counts is the historical witness of your gun.
Anyway, a good cleaning with nothing abrasive would do wonders. I've been using gun oils like DW40 and Ballistol for ages without any problem.

That looks like more than surface rust to me - I see a lot of pitting.
I'm sorry but this gun can't be worth more than $900 in that condition. The only thing that would make it worth more is if the mags are numbered to match the gun.

In my experience, rust damage is somewhat permanent and can never be fully fixed. I've ruined more guns with bronze wool than I care to admit. It leaves the bluing with a yellow or gold tint. Stick with CLEAN oiled steel wool and you should be able to turn the rust dark enough to blend with the finish. After that, the best thing I have found to remove any remaining rust safely is a Q-Tip soaked in gun oil and a lot of rubbing. Keep rubbing and checking - as long as the color of what you are removing is brown, you are OK. As soon as you see gray, STOP - that is bluing coming off.

Still, it's an original Luger for someone to start out with and learn by taking it apart and putting it back together a few times.

- Geo