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Tools for Luger Disassembly
I have a mismatched Luger that I need to disassemble. Can anyone recommend what tools are recommended? I am assuming it requires a punch set. I have no gunsmithing experience, but work on detailed electronics / computers. This will be a learning experience! Any help or advice on what to buy is appreciated. Thanks
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Unless there is some compelling reason to totally disassemble a Luger, no tools other than a screwdriver are needed. A lot of damage can be inflicted by a well-meaning novice that is of the opinion that total disassembly is necessary to clean a firearm. Now, if your Luger is heavily rusted to the point that the parts do not function then disassembly may be required. A proper set of punches is necessary to remove the pins. Generally they drift out from right to left (the right side of the Luger is determined by pointing the muzzle away from you…even dealers that should know better will often identify the side of the Luger with the side plate as the “right” side). When attempting to remove the center toggle axle, do not forget to drift out the retaining pin in the left toggle knob. Also, the pin that retains the thumb safety should be drifted down from the top, not up from the bottom.
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Ron - thanks for your feedback. One of the "knobs" on my Luger's rear toggle broke off during firing by the previous owner. I suspect the ammo was too hot. No idea.
Anyway, this piece needs to be replaced, I suspect it has pins involved. Any recommendations on a quality punch set? Since it is a non-matching parts gun, I will likely attempt the repair myself. Thanks again - Jim |
If you can find one that can be fit properly, the best approach would be to replace the entire toggle train (including the complete breech block, forward and rear toggle pieces, and all the axles and pins.
These parts are all hand fit, and the dimensions are critical to proper operation and headspace of the loaded cartridge. This, honestly, is not a task for a novice. Your best approach would be to contact Tom Heller or another experienced Luger gunsmith. Marc |
Not the easiest, but not impossible for a novice to swap out the rear toggle link, and then the headspace shouldn't be an issue Marc?
I would just swap it out and a punch set from lowes would work, just buy a better set than a cheap set... |
I use a Starrett pin punch set. Part of the fun for me is to take Lugers apart. It's a little bit of a challenge but great for learning about them. I agree with Ed..this part should not affect headspace. IF you attempt it..don't force anything. Work it slow and pay attention to what pin holds what. Have fun!
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I seen a complete DWM toggle assembly somewhere while surfing Jerry's favorite porn sites not too long ago. Reasonable priced, I felt too.
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Rick..I understand caution, it is well advised but then there is going overboard.
A lot of the pin punches I use are made from junk I find. Some of the teeny tiny pins on Lugers I have made punches for out of nails or drill stock. Many of the pins on a Luger are not held in that tightly. I think the smallest is the pin holding in the sear plunger. A lot of these you can simply push out with hand pressure. Camon! Don't ruin the guys fun! It's not rocket science! Discussing caution though..I would carefully inspect ALL parts of the pistol in GOOD LIGHT and a magnifying glass. You don't know why the toggle broke off..could be an overcharged round..could be a defective part. Is the ramp on the rear of the pistol dented or distorted? Lugers are quite safe for the most part..not to be treated cavalerely but with the attention any firearm deserves. At least a bolt won't come back in your face like a C96! I have taken down 2 different balls of rust..had to be hammered apart. Put in a few parts here and there..scrubbed off the rust with a wire brush on a drill. Oiled em up, put them together and they run like yo mama's sewing machine. I have always enjoyed mechanickin with the Luger. This just some old fools opinion..not necessarily good advice. |
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