BYF 41 Luger
 

Hello all I just got this from my dad today, its been probably 30 years since I've seen it. He picked it up in Japan when he was serving in the Korea war. He did a number on it with it being reblued, new grips and a few other things done to it. He couldn't remember if he had the Eagle engraved or not and I haven't found any pics on this forum to inform me either way. I haven't disassembled it yet but all the numbers that I can see seem to match. Didn't see any proof marks and that got me curious. Any further info anyone can give would be appreciated.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ejr/luger1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ejr/luger2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ejr/luger3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ejr/luger4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ejr/luger5.jpg

A classic, GI post war rework for personal taste. Although now a shooter, it is one dandy of a shooter!

Treasure it as your Dad's legacy.

I have a byf 41, ns, series. It has been highly buffed, acceptance stamps buffed off. And high polish blued.

It's a great shooter.

So shooting shouldn't be a problem then?

Shoot away to your heart's content!

There is nothing that cannot be replaced on this pistol that would hurt its value.

I like the grips :)

The refinish and grip replacement takes it out of collector interest.

The good news is that you have a family heirloom that you can shoot without concern!

These Mauser made lugers are very high quality. Good metallurgy. Accurate shooters.

Read up on them here, and remember that they are not modern handguns with extensive safety features. Always follow the safe handling rules, and double check that it's unloaded before each disassembly. The upper by itself can be a functioning firearm without the frame.

Are the grips real bone or ivory? If so they have some intrinsic value...

Marc

While we say it is OK to shoot it, it is always a good idea to have it inspected by a competent gunsmith before firing.
End of legal sermon.
dju

Enjoy the heck out of it. I owned a byf 41 and it was a TACK driver!

The grips are unfortunately cracked up by the safety. You see the broken off part in the pic. He also had his name inlayed in silver on the forward part of the grip. Whoever did it didn't do a very good job. It came with one mag with a few 9mm rounds and 1 .30 round. I thought that was strange until I came here and started looking around.

Don't shoot that .30!

If you plan to shoot and enjoy this Luger, stick with standard velocity ammo like Winchester white box 115gr FMJ or PMC 115gr FMJ. NO +P, +P+, or Nato 9mm ammo. Enjoy!!

Welcome, and thanks for showing your family treasure. Here's how to tell if your grips are ivory, bone, or plastic.

Do the Hot Pin Test (from http://www.wikihow.com/Tell-Ivory-from-Bone )

1
Heat a straight pin. Hold it over a candle flame or a lighter flame for a few seconds until it gets quite hot. You can use any piece of metal, but a pin is a good choice since you don't want to create a mark on the item you're testing.
2
Hold the pin to the surface of the item. Choose a discreet spot so you don't end up leaving a mark or a dent (although if the item is ivory, this won't happen).
3
Smell the place where you touched the item with the hot pin. If the item is ivory, it should have no scent that wasn't there before. If it's bone, it will smell faintly of burning hair.
True ivory will not get damaged by this experiment, since it is hard and strong enough to resist the heat. However, if the object you're testing happens to be made of plastic, the hot needle will make a slight dent. Since some plastics (such as Bakelite) have as much or more value than ivory, you may not want to try the hot needle test until you know for sure that what you have is not plastic.

Thanks for info on the ivory check, maybe Ill take the grips off and test underneath.

wish my shooter looked that good....

Marc..These Mauser made lugers are very high quality. Good metallurgy.

In general and mostly I agree with this BUT I have seen 2 different mausers that had cracked bolts, toggles and top cannons like they were frozen and smacked with a hammer. VERY fine cracks and lots of them. So fine they could not be seen except with good light and close inspection. These 2 examples told me the metallurgy or heat treating or both could sometimes go wrong on Mausers.

This is just an aside..of course MOST Mauser Luger's are just what Marc says..It sure was interesting to see though.

it is always a good idea to have it inspected by a competent gunsmith before firing. IF you can find one! I think in Kaliphornia they all starved to death.

Actually, their business is BOOMING. For the same reasons everywhere else.

Well, That's good to know!

Yea - my first choice LGS to handle the FFL for my Luger couldn't do it. Told me he was totally OUT of storage space for incoming FFL transfers. He was even taking stuff home at nite! But his shop is pretty much a hole in the wall.

So the "big" LGS could do the FFL - every time I'm in there, the place is PACKED. And it is a BIG gun shop! They tell me they're selling guns like crazy.

The small guy is doing some work on a revolver for me, and he's backed up for months...

Itll probably be busy till the end of the year when all the new laws they are passing go into effect.