Quick Question About a S/42
 

I currently have a 1938 S/42. It has been reblued, and is all matching except the magazine. The magazine has a bakelite brown base with a cross inside one dish (+ aprox 1mm wide mark). The mag body has a P or something similar to it.

The toggle axis pin (The main pin hlding the toggle to the cannon) is un-numbered. Is this common? I am curious if it might be a replacement part.

The Magazine, is there any way to identify the type I have?

Please dont ask for pics, my camera sucks.

Your magizine sounds like a Swiss Mag. According to my references the main toggle pin should have the last two digits of the serial number on it. Since this has been reblued it shouldn't make any difference. Enjoy your luger. Should make a great shooter. Bill

Reinhardt
It sounds like you have a Swiss 06/29 magazine. The cross should be in the center of the right finger grip. The script P at the base of the spine identifies the maker as Rudolf Pfanninger of Stafa (ZH).

Ok so one piece is not numbered to the gun, I can live with that. The only problem is that the reblue has made the gun tighter than it should be. The gun stove pipes with every type of 9mm I have shot through it. WWB, Federal, S&B etc. My only option is going to be thinning the blue where the metal contacts reduce friction. Remove a layer of blueing not any metal.
The cross is in the right side dish. Just like described. The funny thing is that this pistol had reproduction Swiss Bern style grips on it. Older (1960's) reproduction and Italian made.

Its a shooter so I made it look how I like it. I had to go with a classic rosewood for the grips and use only Mec-Gar mags as I am afraid of damaging the older mags I do have.

My other is an original DWM Artillery model thats a little beat up, but shoots great and looks ok.

Thank you both for your input on this. I knew it was a shooter, but I just was trying to find out if it should have the numbered pin. The grips mag and finish were altered, I wanted it to shoot and because it looks sharp.

I'm a bit concerned with your theory about the bluing being too thick and inhibiting the gun's function. Never seen bluing that thick, and the Ruskies had some pretty globular coatings after WW2: those guns seem to run very well. Check all the parts and their fit first before removing any bluing. and of course lube the H--l out of it. If you get oil on your glasses when you are shooting, that's about right. v :)
dju

I have a 1937 S/42 and going to a lighter main coil spring seems to have fixed the stove piping.