Luger Re-barrel
 

Hey guys! Looking for a little assistance here. I'm looking for the proper tool to cut the extractor slot on the breech face of the barrel. does anyone have a line on a tool that will work, or a substitute method to use?

Cheers! Thanks!

Check this out...
http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=25858

Very interesting...I wish I had the time that fool has to waste on frivilous projects like this... :grr: I wonder what ever happened to that barrel??? :confused:

+ 1 :thumbup:

Woodruff keyway cutter ground to extractor dimensions. That's how I'd do it, if I were ever to do it on a more-than-one-off basis...For now, I just use two Woodruff keyway cutters [one thin, one wide] and file the sharp edges...

Here's a pic -

http://forum.lugerforum.com/attachme...1&d=1236649911

- From an old post -

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showpost...1&postcount=64

...In an old thread -

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=21048

Thanks to both of you! I do indeed have a copy of John's CD (my first and only activity two years ago was to get a copy of it) and have been studying them like any good scholar should. I'm fully tooling up for this project: Inserts, cutters, reamers, gauges etc. so that i may make more in the future. I've managed to locate a properly sized rounding cutter to make the cut, but have not yet purchased it. This site has a 1.4x2R Corner rounding tool, which I would cylindrically grind to 5.1mm, and surface grind the tip to a diameter of 1.5mm. Should be a fun project :D

Fortunately a good friend of mine is not only a gunsmith, but a rifle barrel maker. He's got all the fun equipment to make the project go. Even got my barrel: a 32" blank of 4150, .308 cal, 1:10 twist.

I figure it should work well. There are other manufacturers that make a tool with similar specs. The blance you have to find is what kind of cut do you want to make? A perfectly ground tool will cut in one pass (with multiple depth cuts, of course), though a smaller tool will allow you to hog out the middle, and do some very light finishing passes, decreasing wear and the stresses induced on such a small tool. Microcut USA makes a tool with a .0458" pilot (1.19mm) and a shank of 1/4" (6.35mm), which could be easily ground to cut on each side of the groove. The tool is a little weaker, but would be subject to fewer stresses.

I figured 1-10 should work well. My Google research yielded a number of different twists for the .30 luger: 1-10, 1-11, and as fast as 1-8 and 1-9. I should have copied SAAMI and Wikipedia specs and gone with 1-11, but i doubt it will make much of a difference in the end. As to .308 grooves, it seems a fair number of bullets are available in .308, and squeezing a factory bullet down from .3095 won't hurt anything. Afterall P.O. Ackley shot a .35 Whelen through a .30 caliber barrel without any issues, so I don't see a thou and a half causing me any trouble.

I will! Once I get some more of the components and tooling required I'll take an ensemble photo, and update it with progress. So far I have the prints and a barrel blank. Tomorrow i should be able to pick up my BSW threading inserts and get some more tooling ordered. Maybe my supplier will also have a reasonably priced 10mm endmill... we shall see.

So I'm forging through this project, and have encountered a potential stumbling block. I've located a suitable pistol in 9mm, however the intention is to make the pistol a .30.

What, if anything, would need to be done to accommodate the reduced cartridge power? I'm hearin that all I need is a new mainspring, but I would like to confirm with you guys.

Cheers!

Cool, thanks for the info.

I don't understand the controversy over using or not using 20tpi threads. According to Sabato's blueprints the thread is an 18mm-1.270 metric thread, 55 degree BSW. However, 1.27mm is exactly equal to .050, or the pitch of a 20tpi thread. I've also purchased the proper 55 degree BSW full form threading inserts from Sandvik, so I should be able to make many barrels should the need arise.

It's odd that ammunition components would be an issue. Here in Canada we have easy access to the superb Starline brass, and it is no more expensive than 9mm brass from remington or Winchester. Dies are a bit of a pain to find, but not too terribly difficult either. Can't wai to get this Luger and put a couple boxes through it :D

Well, finally received, and got around to re-barelling my pistol. She started off as what i beleive to be a 20's era commercial. The serial number on the frame is 7881 with a little stylized L underneath it. It also has some military stampings on the front of the grip. Unfortunately I don't recall what they are, and the pistol is with a friend for legal reasons. It's in overall excellent condition, re-blued by someone competent at some point, and in overall matching condition. A few parts are mismatched, but nothig major and nothing exterior. Here are a few before and afters:

It looks good. How does it function, or have you had time to really give it a go?

Well, I am having some issues. The gun functions perfectly, however is out f sync and will not cycle. The upper receiver travels all the way bak and unlocks the toggle, but the bullet and pressure have since left the barrel, and no pressure remains to force the case back and operate the toggle. I'm going to try a lighter mainspring, which will hopefully help, but if it doesn't I will have to lighten the barrel until she functions.