1917 DWM Luger Toggle Link Pin problem
 

I have a 1917 DWM Luger which I purchased after it had been polished and reblued. Top half is one serial number (all matching) and bottom half is a different serial. Top half and bottom half SN's do not match each other but each assembly is matching. I've fired maybe 200 rounds through it.

Problem recently arose, when firing, the toggle link pin (see photo) slides out partway and blocks the action.
I can slide it back in and continue firing, but the pin keeps popping out of place. There is actually a small nick in the edge of the "lip" on one end of the pin, just visible in photo below.

Others at the range suggested the pin was polished to reblue and is now too small to stay in the hole (this may be true because the 1917 date is barely visible.) The action shouldn't open enough to allow this to happen, but it does.

I do not know any history of the gun other than it came from the Las Vegas Gun Show. I got it from a dealer.

Anything ideas how to correct this problem?

Hi Rob, Welcome to the forum! There is nothing wrong with your gun or it's toggle pin. It is a shortcoming in the original P08 design, which first manifested itself towards the end of WWI when stronger ammunition was introduced. It was corrected on WWI Navies by switching to large flanged rear toggle pins and on WWII Mausers by extending the frame at the back by 1mm. If you switch to less potent ammo you shouldn't have a problem. Regards, Norm

Thanks for the advice,

Currently using new (not reload) commercial Blazer Brass 115 grain, which shouldn't be particularly hot, to my knowledge. Blazer Brass works great in my P.38s and in the Luger.

Winchester White Box 115g and UMC 115g doesn't feed well in the Luger and worse in my P38s/P1, WW2 or postwar. Seems to be slightly shorter OAL than Blazer Brass. My plastic handled Springfield XDM-9 shoots anything it gets, but has the advantage of 95 years' firearms design know how.

I do not reload 9mm and don't buy +P 9mm ammo. (I do reload other calibers.)

Another simple solution is to cover the rear pin with heavy cup grease to help hold it in via higher viscosity.

Rob, You might try another pin. From your photo yours does not look like it reaches the edge of the flange like it might be a few thousands smaller than it should be.. Find a DWM WW1 pin ..that could be an easy fix.

Norm and Doug are right..it's a design flaw recognized by Mauser. Mauser also had different diameter pins for what I can only guess might have been for a tighter fit.

You might consider trying PMC 115gr FMJ ammo. My Lugers perform very well with it, and the price is very reasonable...just a thought. Tom Heller(LugerDoc on this forum) may well have the pin that you need.

Fixed the duplication

Good idea on the grease.
 

I agree that the grease idea might be a quick and temporary fix. The right pin is what is really needed.
jack
Imho

My way of fixing this problem is easy and simple.I take some
Rubbing Alcohol on a q-tip and clean the pin and right side of
the pin hole,then I use a little Permatex medium strength
Threadlocker Blue that you can get at any auto store,and
put some on the right side of the toggle pin hole and put the pin in and let it set overnight.If you do this the pin will not
work out again.
Thanks George:thumbup:

Rob, I do have unnumbered NOS rear toggle axels available @$25 + $5 S&H. If your axel is chipped or over polished on the flange, that's why it's drifting out. If it in fact is too loose in the polished receiver, I do also have a few 0.05mm oversized original axels that might solve your problem, at the same price. TH