Luger Parts That Require Oiling
 

This is my first luger and it was quite rusty and dirty. I decided to completly disassemble and clean it. I soaked it in oil and rinsed it in K1 kerosene. I am ready to oil it but do not know what parts really "require oiling" for operational reasons and what parts don't. Please advise. Thanks.

Hello!
Wouldn't it be a good idea to give all the parts a light oiling. Just to keep it from rusting etc.
And after using the pistol and cleaning it, the same again. At least, that's what I'm doing every time.
Of course the moving parts need the most care.
Good luck with your first "parabellum" ; -)

Best Regards
jussi

Gary, I use a shaving brush to give a light coat of oil to all parts, inside and out. This keeps moisture in the air from gaining a foothold anywhere. Then I put a little dab on any part that moves.
Underneath on the rails I put a slight smear of white lithium grease if I will be fireing the pistol.
Be sure you lightly oil inside holes and don't forget to oil the toggle pin..inside the bolt and the fireing pin and spring. Inside behind the sideplate. There is a spring and a well behind the trigger..If you have taken the pistol completely apart you will notice all of these.

Thanks for the advice...........!!

What's a shaving brush ........:rolleyes:

Harry

What's a shaving brush..This is the only thing I use to put oil on my pistols. I have a half dozen of them everywhere..on my leather bench, my cleaning kits..in my safe. Whenever I take out a pistol..before I put it back I hold it by the wooden grips and give it a thorough once over with a light coat of oil. Keeps fingerprints off and assures me my pistols stay in top shape.
I wonder how other collectors apply oil to their pistols?

I always grab it by the grips and rig raged it with rig grease.

This is good stuff: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...UST_PREVENTION

I use it after refinishing a gun, but it also works great after a complete disassembly and cleaning. You just dip or brush the parts, shake off the excess, let it dry for a day or so and it will leave a very thin, waxy film that's more than adequate for a properly stored gun. The viscosity and penetration reminds me of crude oil: It's very thin and runny and penetrates everything (including your work bench, clothes and whatever it comes in contact with) so it can be a bit messy to work with, but it's very easy to get a good coverage and it's not as greasy as oil once it's dry. It also seems to "deepen" the finish a bit, especially on rust blued guns. It's not a lubricant though, so you will have to lube with something else wherever it's needed.

I never completely take a gun apart, probably just a bit more than field maintenance, but I will clean a gun very good the first time, then before putting it back, i oil it like I would any gun.

As Jerry said, you put lube it more if it is a shooter, but for me, I never treat them much different, although I take some CLP with me to the range.


Ed

OTOH, there is such a thing as too much oil. Hi, I'm a newbie and just bought a 1916 DWM non-match shooter. I took out the firing pin from the bolt and there was a lot of black oil that had accumulated over the decades. The firing pin was in good shape but I'll bet excessive oil there could prevent the striker from firing ammunition reliably. This wasn't a problem with mine so far with the 20 or so rounds I've fired. Even so, I just oiled it lightly when putting it back.

addition: Or someone had dipped the gun in light oil for the old oil was pretty thin.

In the area you are speaking to, it is most likely some oil and a lot of powder residue that has built up over several year of war use. I've seen the build up in that area to be directly related to the wear that shows up on the rest of the gun.