1917 DWM - New Owner Questions
 

Hello, this is my first post on this forum, and I was hoping for a little insight on my recent acquisition. Several weeks ago, I inherited two handguns from my Grandfather - a '92 Colt 1991 and a 1917 Luger P08. I'm pretty familiar with the Colt, but my knowledge of the Luger is very limited. I'm hoping that you fine folks can help me out with that!

From the research I've done, I've determined (and been told) that I have a genuine 1917 German-made 9mm Luger that has mostly matching numbers. And, well, that's about all I know, aside from the basic history of the P08. Hopefully someone can answer a few questions for me.

Not that I would ever sell this gun (since it is a heirloom), but approximately how much is this gun worth? I've taken it to a local firearms dealer, and the gentleman there told me it was in good shape and, after a thorough cleaning, ready to take to the range.

Is it common to find any hand-etching on these guns? Seems like this may have been a military or police thing since it surely decreases the value.

What's the best way to clean the grips without ruining the wood or checkering? They seem pretty filthy.

What is "Miltex, Inc."? I'm assuming this is some sort of business specializing in import or military firearms...

Last question. The take down lever is VERY difficult to move. I cannot move it with my finger, and have to use a flat, dull tool to drop it down. Is there anything I can do about this?

I've included a bunch of pictures for your viewing pleasure. Thank you all in advance for any advice you have to offer!

Hi Justin,

You have what is termed a VoPo Luger imported by Miltec in probably the early to mid 90's.

This Luger was captured by the Russians during, or at the end of WWII. Then issued to the East German People's Police (Volkspolizei). It was common practice to either re-stamp, or in this case electro-pencil numbers on the parts. They would just mix and match parts until the Luger functioned properly and then number them to the gun.

You can find these VoPo's ranging from $500 to $1000 depending on the variation of markings and finish. Shoot it and enjoy it.

Ron

Are you pulling the 'cannon' assembly back about 1/4 inch before trying to turn it down??? This seems to be the most common part to break...

I have seen many Lugers were either broken or marred because someone used a "tool" to rotate the takedown lever. As Postino noted, you must move the receiver back a bit in order to rotate the takedown lever. This is easily done by pressing the muzzle of the gun against a solid, non-marring, surface (a cinderblock wall is not a good choice:))

Make DAMNED sure it's unloaded first. Not demeaning you, I've been handling firearms for 45+ years and I still get attacks of stupid.

If you hear a loud bang, and see a bright flash? You know you did it wrong. And then everybody in the house stops talking to you, including your dog. ;)

Thanks so much for the replies. The VoPo info is quite fascinating; I'll have to do some more research on that.

Yes, I am moving the assembly back when I try to move the take down lever. It's still too tight to move by hand, but I've taken it apart twice, cleaned it once, and it seems to be getting a little better. Perhaps a decade in a gun safe has taken a bit of a toll.

Check to see that the small "L" shaped retaining spring hasn't broken, or gotten jammed under the lever...

I appears to be intact, though, to be honest, I don't really know what I'm looking at. The take down lever moves freely after it clears the side plate though. Perhaps it isn't quite compatible with the non-matching side plate?

Justin, Often in mismatched sideplates the takedown lever comes up against the sideplate arm that is too fat. This can make it hard to rotate down. You can take out the takedown spring and see if the condition persists. If it does... the sideplate arm under the takedown lever is indeed..too fat. I have filed down my share of these to loosen up the lever.
If it has the affect of being alright when the spring is out of the pistol..it is the spring. The spring is an arcing wire affair that interacts with the rotation of the takedown lever by fitting into a slot. If the arc is too high it will be difficult to move it from this slot. Or it could be a combination of the two.
A good tool to begin moving the takedown lever is the thin end of a clothespin. Non marring wood and generally slips right in.

Thanks for the information, Jerry! I'll check it out after work this evening.