Breech Block issues
 

I have 4 different shooters that i like to take the range. At this point all 3 have a damaged breech blocks. The rear of the breech block that is worn down/broken where the firing pin retainer presses against block when it is in the locked position. I spent some time looking on the site but cant really find if there is any way to fix this or if i have to just get new breech blocks. Below is a picture of one of them. As you will imagine the firing pin spring and retainer just fly out when you turn it. Below are some pictures of this.

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/1928/dsc01843cj.jpg
http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/8611/dsc01849ce.jpg
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/4900/dsc01851hn.jpg

I have seen this before but to have three out of your four shooters experience this problem is extraordinary.
Besides the unlikely possibility of faulty metallurgy in all these guns, the only other explanation I can think of is overpressured ammunition, pierced primers, etc.

Do you hand load?

One of the guns I purchased was broken when I got it so I never added to the issue. The other two guns I did shoot. One of which I shot approx 100-200 rounds while i solved the sight issue with it. I also work at an ammunition manufacture and I have only used 115gr standard load ammunition on it. I will try to get some pictures of the other ones as well to post up. The one shown was my arty that I got 2 years ago. I have to make a correction. I have another shooter that I have probably shot 2k rounds through that has does not have this issue.

Weak main springs can cause this issue, the breach block can actually hit the rear of the frame in this case.

The best way would be to have a spot weld applied and then shaped.

I have tried various fillers and glues over the years and even though some held up for a while the best way I know of is to use the spot weld repair.

Good luck

Vern

I have had a breech block with a blown out extractor shoulder micro-welded [think of a TIG welder crossed with a microscope] and it turned out very well.

This type of welding should only be attempted by an metal expert who is also a machinist... If you can't find someone in that category, I recommend you replace the breechblocks.

Member THOR or LugerDoc may be able to recommend someone who can repair the breechblocks you have...

Defintely replace the main recoil spring in all three damaged guns as a precaution after affecting the repairs....

Just a thought. Wouldn't it be possible to machine a new shoulder insert at 3 o clock rather than repair the one at 12? Because of the guide on the right side there is more metal available and it should be stronger. It would be a matter of rotating the firing pin retainer a bit further, that's all.

An innovative Idea Gerben... I have not seen it done before, but it would be worth a try.

...but IMHO it is still a job for a qualified machinist, not a tinker-er (If your reading this, there was no pun intended Ed (or maybe there was?) :D )

Your blown BB is not uncommon; this is the area where they usually fail. In the past I've tried several welder to save a matching PO8, but few were able to successfully remove the excess weld from the inside slot in which the retaining piece turns. For shooters, I recommend the use of a Mauser relieved FP, so in the event of a puntured primer, the FP is not driven back like a piston against the rear of the BB. The easiest and probably the least expensive solution is to replace the BB. TH

Lugerdoc nailed this one! Good advice!:typing:

Thanks for the input from everyone. Now the hunt begins for new BBs.

Numrich lists repro breech blocks -

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/...spx?catid=3124

I was able to get an original breech block from Sarco, but it took 6 - 8 months of backorder...

Yep, I saw those Sarco ones too and was tempted, as I have one with a chipped extractor slot...price is right, but I'd be leery. Of every part on a Luger, I'd consider this one to be the most critical as far as hardness and dimensional tolerances....who knows where and when and by whom they were made?

I think you mean the Numrich ones... ;)

Sarco doesn't show any on their site right now (that I could find), but a call/email to the order desk might yield results...