Can anyone tell me about my 1918 DWM Luger?
 

I picked up this Luger a couple weeks ago and I was wondering if anyone can tell me anything about it. It's a 1918 dated DWM military 9x19mm Luger with all matching numbers, "r" code, I believe. Bore isn't too bad, just very dirty. I need to get some of that foaming bore cleaner and shoot it down there a few times. But good rifling. Grips are repro, I have the originals and they're pretty beat up, didn't get pics of them. Anyways, the peculiar thing is that there are no Waffenampts on the side (there's an imperial eagle on the barrel and I think Weimar's and imperal crown stamps on the side, but they're a little worn), but there is a quite clear Nazi eagle and Swastika on the rear of the pistol. There's a small "4" stamped next to it, as well. What do you guys think this means? Was this common practice? Also, I don't think the magazine is original. The floor plate actually may be, but I don't think the body is. It's got a number stamped on the bottom and what looks like a German letter code, but no markings on the body. It is also very poorly roll pinned to the body. I think I may try to find an original wood-bottom magazine. Also may need an original holster if I can get my hands on it.

http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...0-09-05007.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...0-09-05008.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...0-09-05009.jpg
http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t...0-09-05010.jpg

What do you guys think? Is she a keeper? Would you guys suggest having it restored by LugerMan or would that destroy the value? I'll get a chance to shoot her in a couple weeks.

Thanks!

Jeff,

I am sorry to say that this Luger is not collector grade. The barrel is a replacement. The eagle/swatiska is fake (the Third Reich did not exist in 1918 - the lack of waffen ampt proofs you refer to are absent for the same reason). Moreover, the gun is horribly pitted and appears to have been heavily buffed. If it is possible, I suggest that you return the gun and get your money back. Please do not take offense at my observations: you made a mistake - we all make mistakes.
KFS

If all parts are present and the pistol is functional, it has a little value for shooting purposes only. I would give it a value of $450 to $500 max. Unfortunately, it has absolutely no interest to a collector because of its poor and abused condition. Even if you paid an expert restorer $1000 this pistol could not be brought up to an acceptable appearance.

That Eagle and Swastika stamp on the rear was available from Gun Parts Corporation years ago along with some choice waffenamps. You still see them turn up on spurious items being passed off as nazi era.

Jeff...get a chance to shoot her in a couple weeks.

Make sure you look over the internals before shooting. Lugers can look bad on the outside but be fine inside. I alway shoot the first round into the ground held down and away from my head and upper body. You may not be able to perform this at a public range.

Good advice above...Depending on what you paid it could work as a shooter. Don't put another nickle into it though. Save your money for the holster you want or another mag. Or another Luger!
It has been reblued at least once already.

As Doug has pointed out..the Nazi Eagle is spurious. No German would put a stamp in this place. The toggle bottoms out there and marks/indents this area which would damage any marking.

Congratulations ...let us know how it shoots!

Jerry Burney

pm sent

PM sent

Mark

Well gentlemen, as usual you jumped on a poor guys Luger with out research or experience. The guy has a legit early Nazi training Luger. I have a 1918 with similar markings including a s/42 marked barrel with Nazi eagle. Yes I am familar with the Numerich stamps. Interesting but not quite the same as original. I got my 1918 before these stamps were on the market. Reference: Weimar and Early Nazi Lugers by Jan Still pages 209-220.

Hi all! Sorry for the late reply. I am currently in Army AIT (training) to become an Aircraft Electrician at Fort Eustis, VA, so I don't have internet access except on the weekends.

Wow so is this a legit Nazi Luger? The stamp really doesn't look like it was done 20 years ago. The Luger looks really terrible in the pictures but it really isn't as bad in sunlight. Next weekend I will be home on a holiday weekend so I will take better pictures and shoot it as well. I bought this pistol from my recruiter and it does shoot very well. The only thing it needs to function 100% is a good magazine. The wood grips ARE replacements and I do have the original grips, but they have a lot of play when they are on the pistol. All of the internal parts are in good condition and every number matches, including the barrel. The barrel is NOT a replacement. The pistol was in MUCH worse condition when it first came to my recruiter, and he did repair it a little. If this Luger is truly not legit then that's okay, I will still be shooting it a lot. It won't be my last Luger, as they're my overall favorite weapon of all time, this is just my first one, and I will be keeping it. If I can maybe help get rid of some of the pitting, I may, but I may just leave it how it is. I know this pistol isn't a collector's piece, I never expected it to be, and any Luger I own will be something I shoot (I can't afford a wall hanger or safe queen). I was just wondering if anyone could tell me the origins of this particular Luger and if anyone had seen the Swastika marking like that. Thanks for your input so far and any more would be greatly appreciated. But I would rather not hear that I made a mistake or this Luger is crap, because I do know what I bought, I didn't expect it to be a collector piece. I'd just like to know some of the history ;)

For now don't do anything but oil it to remove the pits, as you could be doing more damage than good. Also we should be able to help you tighten the orig. grips up a bit as that is a common issue. Keep us posted as time allows.
Thanks.
dju

Will oil actually do anything to help the pits?

I bought my 2nd Luger from my recruiter, back in the '80's... :D

What is it about recruiters & Lugers??? :roflmao:

:roflmao: That's pretty awesome!

Yes - it will keep more oxidation from forming in the pits. Pits are rusting - iron oxide - and rust will continue to form in them unless you prevent oxygen from contacting the rust already in the pits. Oils does that , it seals it. Wax is better - you don't have to replinish it as often.
Bob