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Newbie Introduction and 1937 S-42 pics
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Greetings All,
I wanted to stop in and introduce myself and show off my 1937 S-42. I'm from NE Penna, former military and a casual collector of military firearms. I've spent the last few years working with AK-style rifles and shotguns, and I've only recently rediscovered my first acquisition (see pics below). Anyway, I'd like to say thanks to everyone for all the great information I've gotten from this site! My photos aren't very good, but if anyone can pitch in with a little info about my pistol I'd really appreciate it. I'll eventually pass it down to my son so it's not for sale, but I'd be interested to know what it's worth if anyone wants to throw out some numbers. I've got a bunch more photos I'd like to post so please wait until I've uploaded them all before replying. Sincere thanks in advance! Details: 1937 S-42 Mauser P-08 Serial 7461"r" with tons of Waffenstamps All matching numbers (AFAIK) Black plastic grips (original?) Non-matching period magazine (5715"g") Finish not so good (%?) Fed and fired flawlessly until the Hold-Open Latch Spring broke Anyone know where I can find another spring? Warm regards, Sapper |
Photos Part II
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Here are some more pics!
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Photos Part III
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And more pics...
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Final Pics
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This is it for the photos. Thanks again!
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Sapper,
Welcome to the forum! Nice Mauser Luger... I can't tell from the pictures... Is there bluing finish left on the gun, or is it mostly in the white? Get some preserving oil onto your Haenel magazine to stop the corrosion. I'm not sure what you should do to remove the rust. Perhaps light use of 0000 steel or brass wool? Tom Heller ("lugerdoc" on this forum) is a great source for original Luger parts and advice. I've dealt with him several times and am happy with each transaction. I don't have my references here, but will chime in later if others don't fill you in on details about your Luger. If you choose to fire this after you've done your repair, look for reduced loads. Lugers were not designed for today's NATO power or +P rounds. Many recommend common white box Winchester 115gn or 124 gn ammo. All matching parts increase the value of your gun. If you shoot it and break a numbered part, the value will drop considerably. Finish condition is next on what collectors look for. Values jump as you get better than 95%. Any refinish work reduces collector interest. Marc |
mrerick,
Thanks for replying so quickly. I believe there is very little original finish left on this pistol. I'm more interested in making this a family heirloom than ever selling it, so would I be "ruining" this pistol by having it refinished? And thanks for the tip about the ammo. I'm pretty sure I've never fired high-powered loads though it, but I'll look for low-power rounds from now on. Anyone have any thoughts about the grips? My luck has never been that good, so I expect they are reproductions. And are there any parts that should be marked that I didn't get pictures of? The broken Bolt Hold-Open Spring was not numbered so replacing it shouldn't detract from the pistol should it? Thanks. Regards, Sapper |
I am a total, learning, novice. Shouldn't there be the "Mauser hump" at the back of the frame? A couple of parts look fire blued. Very nice Pistol.
pitsword |
Hi Sapper,
Could you please post a pic of the bottom of the barrel? Barrel appears to have better finish than remainder of pistol. Thanks, pitsword |
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I own a 1937 S/42, too. The black grips do not belong to your gun. The black bakelite grips were used on the so called "black widdow"-Lugers 1941, 1942 byf models. I have no idea if they are originals or reproduction parts. More experienced members will tell you that. I guess the 1937 S/ 42 Lugers whithin the r # block should still have strawed parts. Your small parts look like they were blued. http://luger.gunboards.com/showthread.php?t=3206 |
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Bill |
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Pitsword,
Here's the underside of the barrel. The pic doesn't show it, but it's marked with the serial (7461) and then 8,82 in smaller numbers close to the receiver. The barrel is significantly darker than the rest of the pistol. Thanks. Regards, Sapper |
I think it's a judgment call when there is no finish left on the gun. Check with "Thor" who does restoration work on this forum. I doubt that money invested in refinishing would accumulate to it's eventual sales value, but could be wrong on this. Even if you don't plan on selling it because of family connection, there is also the matter of the historical accuracy destroyed when an original gun is refinished.
I do know that there are several people that seek out refinished guns because they look so nice, and have lower prices than more collectible guns. Jan Still's forum entry at: http://luger.gunboards.com/showthread.php?t=17906 indicates that the hump was present and not present in 1937. also transition from rust blued to salt blued that year. Marc |
Your holdopen looks intact and comnplete to me...
There must be another reason why your pistol malfunctions. |
Thanks for the link. I have to admit that it doesn't mean a whole lot to me (I'm learning though). Is my serial early or late for 1937? Does the pitting and wear on my pistol look too severe for a quality restoration or are those issues fixable? I feel bad having so many questions with nothing to offer in return, but this forum seems to be the definitive source for Luger knowledge on the Web (and not too hard on annoying newbs either). Thanks.
Regards, Sapper |
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Regards, Sapper |
AH! If it is the spring that's broken that can be replaced while keeping the main part with it's number. Don't worry about asking questions. We LOVE to look at lugers and ponder on some mysteries.
Like: Wonder what happened to the finish on this one? The grips appear to be genuine, but not to this model. Are there little fibers inside the screw holes? 1937 was a transition year for many parts/procedures.. Sometimes things got mixed up. Your's should have strawed small parts being in the range, 4500p-1500t. Which makes me wonder about an older refinish. Early 1937s didn't have the Mauser hump, then some did, later all did. Your mag is a type 3 army, 1939-1941. Correct would be a type 2, 1936-1940. This one has a slant bottom, coil spring, blued with a solid aluminum bottom. FN |
FN,
Wow, thanks for the info. I'll post a WTB about the spring. I can't see any see fibers in the screw holes (in the frame), but the divots (?) on the backs of the grips that don't go all the way through seem to have fibers. I'd be interested in trading the grips for a more correct set or even a correct magazine, but I'm not sure if mine are worth anything or not. The finish is a mystery to me as well. If anyone else has heard of or seen anything like this one I'd love to know. I think I would eventually like to have this pistol professionally restored. It doesn't need to be collector grade for it to hold value for me and mine. You guys have been great so far, and I really look forward to everyone's observations and opinions. Regards, Sapper |
Get in touch directly with LugerDoc about the spring. He's the most likely source...
Marc |
Sapper,
Those grips, if real could be worth a set of wood grips AND a proper mag. On the how to vids, they show how to change out a HO spring with a pin punch. Doesn't look difficult. http://www.wonderhowto.com/search/luger/ Lugerdoc has parts and service. Thor does restorations that are miraculous. FN |
How would I be able to tell if they're real?
Regards, Sapper |
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