Finish removal
 

A good removal method for Parkerizing.
Abrasion?
Blasting?
Chemical?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. Chemical would be the choice if possible.

Try Lysol toilet bowl cleaner. It works great on blueing, but I've never tried it on parkerizing.
dju

At Brownell's....Naval jelly.

The Russians tried this in WW2, the Finns gave them a hell of a battle for many years.

I have never tried to remove parkerizing, but if Howard (policeluger) says naval jelly will do it... that's what you need to try... he would know.

Be very careful in is use.

Be aware that Parkerizing is porous and not easily dissolved. If you use, for example Naval Jelly, it will penetrate the Parkerizing and etch the metal underneath before it dissolves the Parkerizing. I have tried a few chemicals, but everything has ended up in a jelly-like Parkerizing with badly etched metal underneath. The only sure way I know of is with abrasives, but I'm all ears if anybody knows of any chemicals that will do the job.

The Birchwood-Casey blue and rust remover works great.....seems it just phosphoric acid, don't know the concentration to brew your own, but hey, it's 5 bucks. If you degrease the surface well, it'll remove the old bluing in 3 or 4 minutes

My good friend Tim Shufflin owner and operator of www.shuffsparkerizing.com feels the best way to remove parkerizing is by blasting with a media such as plastic or glass beeds. Tim has parked many of my M1 Garand projects. Some of my projects started life as unsightly rusty receivers here is a picture of one which was just short of junk.
Don't hesitate to email or call Tim if you have questions he's a real nice guy.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...frifle-3-1.jpg
Bill

Does this really work on Parkerizing? Like I mentioned above, I have experimented some on junk parts and anything I have used so far has just penetrated the Parkerizing and etched the metal underneath. In most cases it would etch the metal before you could even see any differences in the Parkerizing. The Parkerizing just stays there as a wet sponge and you won't know what's happening underneath until you scrape it off. It appears like it won't come off until the metal it's attached to is gone, so it seems kinda dangerous to me.

A very fine mist of bead blasting took the park of his Luger in a heart beat, never did that with nickel or chrome. I immediate put rust bluing solution on the metal and rust blued his side plate for a test, worked fine, all park gone gone! and no noticeable degregation of markings!

Shipping the restored 08 back to Knappolean today. Look supa!:typing: