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How/who to reblue a Navy shooter
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Ok, What I have is a very nice Navy shooter ( I've mentioned before) that a fellow forum member built for me. I would like to have it refinished, but seeing it's a built shooter, I don't think the time and cost involved in getting a old style rust blue would be worth it. Yet I would like to have the Navy refinished, but not have a hack job done on it. With the new barrell and worn blue on the reciever, I think it would look much better all the same finish. Any ideas as to who might do a nice job for me?
Many thanks, Bill |
I don't have personal experience, but everyone on this list swears by member Thor.
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I'm a littlebit confused. I'm reading always so much at this forum about not reblueing a Luger. Almost everybody is recommending not to reblue a Luger, better staying with the worn, authentic condition.
I thought always to keep this gun as it is. What is the right decision? :confused: btw, how much is a reblueing approximatly ? |
The right decision rests with you, whatever you like.
The guns in this thread are made up shooters and are obvious to collectors. If your gun is all original and matching it still isn't a collector based on your assessment of percentage of remaining blue. Post a photo and you'll get all the opinions you need. Like I said do what you want but if you refinish get someone that knows what they're doing. Call Ken and Thor and ask their price if you really want an accurate estimate; it will vary with metal condition. My gun was in good shape so didn't cost a lot. Tom Tom |
Bill, Thor does restorations, which is what I'd recommend if you had an ULGY all matching Navy. For a put together shooter, you can get an exc reblue from Ken Kasted or Charles Danner for about half of Thor's prices. Any of these would be a superior job to what most local guns are offering as a "reblue". TH
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I've sent out the grips to Hugh for restoration. All matching # except the mag and the rear toggle pin, but I'll receive a correct numbered rear toggle pin (old original spare part) within the next 2 weeks. |
Andy, where did you find your toggle pin? Are you getting it from CDS? If so, please tell how you managed that.
Thanks Charlie |
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yes, CDS. They ship the pin to a German address. I've learned if the part(s) are worth more than $100, then an import permit and paperwork is needed. As far I know, for a simple pin worth just a few bucks, an import licence is not required. |
I'm working on Andy's grips now, and they are a real challange:eek:
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I forgot the markings, the markings are:
Eagle 63, eagle 63, eagle. |
Outstanding job!
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:thumbup:Thank you so much!:thumbup: |
Are you dining out on your grips or did you mean "restoration"
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Pics please!
Want to see Hugh's handy work! |
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maybe this answers your question: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nAj1c...eature=related |
A cute video that has been around . Still amusing. Glad to see the change in #14 but you missed it in #8. Keep plugging away :)
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Restored grips
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The result is great! I didn't put the restored grips back on the gun, yet. I'll safe them and use aftermarket grips instead. |
Hugh does absolutely amazing work. The restoration looks perfect.
Charlie |
I'm new here and i wish i had found this Forum long ago , because this place has a Man who knows Luger's. The trouble i have seen in taking a Luger to a Gunsmith who doesn't know a lot about them is , the end result of a Blue job is Red colored and not Blue.
I own Five Luger's , two of which i bought dirt cheap, and the Metal in them was in immaculate original condition . Except the previous owners took them to a place to have them refinished, and they got back a Wine colored to bright red and orange, almost 1960s Hippy's looking pistol. :eek: I stripped one of them down , to white metal because i couldn't stand to see it suffering any longer like that. I used a cold blue on them then because they now were only good as shooters ,and the one from Brownell's worked great ,and it was an even color and not miss matching everywhere. Except it wears off easily like any cold blue will , but i sprayed a light coat of Dura Coat Clear on them then used 0000 steel wool to remove the sheen ,and they look good and the finish doesn't wear off. Except this is not a Blue Job by any Means ,but its far better than the Psychedelic nightmare they once were . So i will need to be talking to this Thor Fellow now ! They are both Mauser's , One is a 1936 and the other one ,the nicest one is a 1940. |
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